I had many misconceptions coming to
Peru – that there were not any large modern cities, that llama and alpaca were
two names for the same animal, and that the entire country was either coastline
or highlands. I was completely unaware of the huge desert and lack of rain that
permeate so much of the country, including Lima. When I began to consider what
I should discuss in my first blog post, I thought to what questions baffle me
the most. While not a particularly sexy question, I had never seen a coastal
desert and wondered how that was possible given what I knew about the forming
of normal deserts. Furthermore, I was always intrigued by how these huge cities
and civilizations developed when a large part of the area received no rain and
why.
The first question was answered by
our first tour guide Ronaldo as we travelled throughout Lima. The waters of the
Pacific off the coast of Peru are an intersection point for two currents, one
of them being the Humboldt. This current is unique due to the influx of cold
water it brings right off the coast, which has the effect of sucking moisture
out of the surrounding land instead of providing it with rain, creating a
coastal desert.
The second question proved to be
less straightforward and more subject to interpretation, but also far more
interesting. Ancient cultures in the South American deserts, from the Sechura
to the Atacama, used different techniques for acquiring and storing water for
the dry seasons. Lima relies on glacial runoff and other means to get its
water, but another method was via lomas,
oasis-like pockets of vegetation that emerge during July and November. These
acted as life lines for animals and populations by the trapping of fog created
by the same Humboldt current that creates the coastal deserts in the first
place. These lomas have been
declining recently due to deforestation and global warming, causing people to
turn back to other techniques, some ancient in nature. One plan involves refurnish
old structures called amunas
originally constructed by the Wari people, which allows rainwater to sink into
the ground and highlands instead of flowing all downstream, creating a store of
water that resurfaces during the dry season.
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