Although I loved Cusco, my stomach did not quite get along
with it. Before going to Cusco I had never been anywhere close to 11,000 feet
above sea level so I had no clue how I would react to the high altitude. Although
I have mostly grown out of my lactose intolerance, it took several rounds of
sick nights for me to realize that the altitude’s effect on my digestion would
bring back the days of my more serious lactose intolerance. The first episode
happened the night before our trip to Pisac. I don’t remember what I ate that
day but I went to sleep feeling totally fine. Then, in my ‘typical response to
too much lactose’ fashion, I woke up in the middle of the night sick and
nauseous. The next day proved to be a bit challenging but drinking some mate de
coca in the morning and then smelling fresh muña that the bus driver picked
later in the day definitely helped. It was super interesting to learn the different ways to use herbal remedies to help my headache and nausea. We hiked through several Incan ruins but.
Later that day I think everyone had a bit of a rough experience at the Blue
Llama Café, where we were first introduced to the infamous Andean cheese.
Although I did not have the cheese, the few cua
cuas and morochas I had that day
did not sit well. The night in Pisac ended up being another sick one for me.
After those two nights, it seemed like I was in the clear. I did not get sick
for several days and I hoped it had just been due to my body adjusting to the
altitude, but in Chinchero I learned that it was not quite over yet.
The delicious Peruvian snacks that I probably ate too many of!
The fist
night in Chinchero passed without any problems, but the second night I woke up
sick and nauseous. I felt exactly the same way as I had in Cusco and with the
outdoor bathrooms providing an extra challenge, I knew that night was going to
be a long one. And it was. Luckily this time my sickness only lasted one night,
and I did not have to spend the night in Ollantaytambo on the floor of the
bathroom vomiting. Thinking back, I am not sure how much milk I had that day in
Chinchero but I think it may have been some combination of dehydration and
altitude sickness at work again. The final episode was this past Friday, while
I luckily never vomited, I had all of the symptoms that I had been having
before. Also like before, some mate de coca really helped me feel better. At
first I thought that my response to the mate de coca was some version of a
placebo effect, but after its help this time too, I am definitely going to
bring some back home with me (the tea bags of course). My mom is a big
tea fan so I think she might be excited to try something new too!
Mate de coca made from the real coca leaves
Now that we are back at sea level in Lima, I feel much
better and I hope to not have any more digestion problems. While the highlands
were absolutely worth the ailments, I think I have to agree with Profe that
down here we eat much better and, I might add, digest much better too.
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