Built on the foundations laid by
the Incas, Cuzco has a very unique architecture. As opposed to the concrete and metal
structures so common in most US cities, Cuzco is still composed of stones
quarried centuries ago. As part of its ancient
construction, it is also built to a much smaller scale than most cities I have
visited. The streets and sidewalks are
narrower, buildings are shorter, and shops are smaller. In contrast, plazas with grand fountains seem
to be much more prominent.
This
construction style makes sense, given the Incan origins. Streets needed only be wide enough to walk,
with a divot down the middle to drain sewage and rainwater. The majority of the buildings were
residential, for important officials to spend a few months of the year. Thus, the city itself is large, interestingly
built in the shape of a puma, yet individual shops are small. Spanish influences are also evident in the
construction of buildings such as cathedrals, made of rocks taken from former
Incan buildings.
Given
the blend of foundations, it is interesting to see how locals have adapted the
city to modern life. One notable example
of this dilemma is street traffic. Often
stretches of roads are only wide enough to accommodate one vehicle at a time,
causing people to back down streets or wait for oncoming traffic to pass. Not only is this true for cars, but also for
pedestrians on sidewalks, many of which are less than two feet wide. In order to pass, someone nearly always has
to step off and in to the road. This has
led to an interesting tendency to honk horns far more frequently than in the
US, and great comfort with squeezing both cars and people in close proximity. This contrasts with a strong preference for
personal space that people in the US tend to hold.
This
same proximity can be seen in shops and restaurants as well. Nearly all of the shops and restaurants here
are of a much smaller size than those in the US. Often there will only be five or six tables
in a restaurant, and a group of our size may take over all of them. The tendency towards smaller settings brings
a much more personal feel to many of the places we go. In shops, this makes it easier to start up conversations
with the owners about their work, as well as completely unrelated topics. In some restaurants, such as Granja Heidi y La
Cantina, it makes it far easier to see the pride that owners take in their
food. Overall, locals appear to have
embraced the smaller scale of architecture and become very comfortable with
close, personal settings. This has made
it far easier to genuinely interact with people and get a sense of the local
culture here in Cuzco.
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