Carriers

 A common practice that caught my eye while visiting Peru, especially in the historic city of Cusco, is the amount of lower-income, mostly Indigenous, workers, that spend their day selling a variety of different souvenirs, trinkets, and other items by carrying an often-times gigantic sack on their back. In class, we learned that these people are called cargadores (or carriers) and have been a historic working population within the city of Cusco, as we read through the autobiography of one in class. 

To me, this work seems physically taxing, as I'm sure many of the cargadores often carry more than their own body weight just to be mostly ignored by wandering tourists. Most of the items they sell are not high in price and are just tourist keepsakes, so I cannot imagine many of these workers earning more than a few soles a day. Sometimes, I would see these workers late at night sleeping on the street, indicating they had nowhere else to go home, and I felt immense sympathy. At the end of the day, I sense that this population is probably more vulnerable and that there is some action that is needed to ensure workers are able to get better jobs in Cusco and throughout Peru. 

Dogs in Peru

 Before I came to Peru, the doctor had warned me about not getting close to any dogs, and to assume that they all had rabies. Not saying that they don’t have rabies, but I was actually really surprised by how much of a community responsibility these dogs seemed to be, and how relatively well taken care of they were. In other cities, I’ve seen any number of animals living on the streets and mildly feral, but the dogs in Peru stayed out of people’s way. I don't think I had a day during this trip (except for in Lima) where I didn't see at least 15 street dogs, all minding their own business or walking around. I saw restaurants at night setting out a plate or tossing out scraps, same thing with people leaving with to-go boxes, and the dogs were pretty gentle about approaching or taking the food from people. I found it really endearing that the whole community subconsciously came together to take care of these dogs, and that it was just a nice thing to do, without any reward. In all honesty, I think that is one of the things that warmed me up to Cusco the most, seeing that people seemed nice, and one of those nice things was their causal caring for the dogs that roamed the streets.

I don’t know much about dogs or if this would be possible, but it almost seems like a case of community domestication; the dogs throughout the entire city are a more mild and nice version of the street dog because they receive food. Then there’s the case of teriyaki, the dog that led us down Machu Picchu and met us on the other side of a river we were crazy enough to cross. I don’t know if he is a house dog, but seeing as he ran off with another dog once we reached the city, I am inclined to believe that he is a street dog. This dog from the street was more well behaved than my dog I have at home, and this is something that shocked me as I thought about it more, because you might think it impossible that a dog off of the street would be so well treated that they behave better than a pet dog. 

Attitudes towards sexuality

 One of the things that stuck out to me in Peru in general, but especially after we went to the exhibition about the erotic pottery, is the attitude towards sexuality that I have observed in what we have studied. Specifically, the not shying away from the human body or sexual topics that might need to be talked about that I feel happens all the time in the United States. This exhibition had any number of genitals and sexual acts depited on different vases and pieces of pottery, but they display itself was rather open, and the exhibition was laid out in a way that didn’t shy away from its contents, being a series of big, open rooms where you could see the entirety of the pieces from the doorway. If there were to be an archaeological discovery of erotic art in the United States that was made some 500 years ago, it would be an extrememly avantgarde, edgy, and most likely limited showing, with protests or some kind of reaction to this kind of art being displayed somewhere where an 18 year old could walk in. In Lima, this was treated with almost more maturity, this is a permanent exhibition, and viewers were calm, simply looking through the art before leaving. This is the same thing I think would happen if a movie like Madeinusa was released in the United States, and though there was criticism in Peru, the fact that the movie even made it off of the ground to be produced says something about the willingness to experiment and be open to conversations regarding sexuality, even that which is criticized and taboo in society. 

I’m not sure what the effects of this may be, perhaps it helps people be more open about the problems in society, maybe not. I know that this may be reading into things a bit too much, but there is definitely something to be said about the relative openness of Latin culture towards some ideas which are more taboo in the United States, though in other cases it is most certainty the other way around. 

Supervision of Children in Peru

 Throughout the entirety of the trip, I have been noticing that children are not as supervised in Peru than they are in the United States. This is not a moral judgement on the parents, just an observation of different cultural parenting styles. I noticed this most jarringly when we were in Aguas Calientes, and were walking around at night (maybe around 10 or 11pm) and there were toddlers running around in the street unsupervised. This was surprising to me because there are thousands of tourists bustling through, so you would think that maybe the town would be a bit dangerous (I have no idea how dangerous Aguas Clients actually is). We saw many boys playing soccer in the street in Pisac, and I continually saw children playing by themselves in the streets of Cusco, especially by the market. Perhaps there is more trust in the local community in Peru, or less fear of kidnapping? In the US there is an ever present fear that children will be kidnapped, and many children are kept under close supervision. In the US parents are obsessed with watching their children 24/7: they watch their kids on baby monitors at night, don’t let their children play alone in the streets. Which is better: hyper-vigilance or under-vigilance? I appreciated that parents in Peru gave their children space to play, I think that it fosters creativity to give children freedom. 

Homelessness

 When we were coming back from Chango one night I noticed that several of the street venders were sleeping by their stands in the street. I have often seen these vendors at night, but this was the first time that I saw them actually sleeping on the streets. It made me think: do they come from villages far away? Is there no affordable place for them to go at night? What concerned me as well was that many of the vendors I passed were elderly women, and even one was swaddling a baby. I think that the city of Cusco should step in and create a shelter for these street venders.

In comparison, in Lima we were approached by many people who directly asked us for money. This made me realize that in our time in Cusco we were never approached by any beggars because in Cusco the homeless people on the street were mostly street venders selling artisanal trinkets or they had snack carts. There were venders on the streets in Lima, but they were mostly fruit venders, and had much more elaborate carts than the venders in Cusco. Also upsettingly in Lima there were young boys selling lollypops on the street. Why were these boys not in school? 

In conclusion, there needs to be more protection of street venders in Cusco to prevent homelessness, and in Lima to prevent child labor. 

Soundscapes of Machu Picchu

 While taking in the view at Machu Picchu I was enjoying the serenity of the birds, the wind, being enveloped in the breathtaking view of the mountains, until I heard a bus honking, which pulled me out of the moment. I was surprised that while walking around the lower grounds of Machu Picchu that I would be able to hear a bus. This sound made me sad for several reasons: firstly, it made me sad because I knew it was a sound unfamiliar to the Incas. As a visitor to this beautiful, ancient city, I was trying to connect with and immerse myself in Inca culture. I was trying to imagine what life would have been like: I was seeing remnants of what they saw and was hearing some of the nature they would have heard, until the bus… Hearing the bus was upsetting not just because it jolted me out of this contemplative state, but also because it reminded me of how touristy Machu Picchu is. Making the site so accessible by building roads right next to the site takes away some of the magic of the site. I was reminded that it is no longer the hidden city untouched in the jungle: it has been found and touched. Lastly, the sound of the bus reminded me of how programmed and structured the experience of visiting Machu Picchu. I was reminded that in a few moments, I too, would be likely riding the bus down (which didn’t actually happen). I really did not enjoy the structure of the visit, particularly the fact that we could only move in one direction and that we were constantly encouraged to move along by the guards. Even the "hike" down from Machu Picchu had built in stairs. I made Machu Picchu my own experience by venturing off the path a bit and finding a quiet rock on a river to contemplate what I had just experienced.

Soccer is for the men

 At the end of our hike within Edita when we stopped by the sacred rock where the children were playing, I was surprised to see that only the boys were playing soccer. Some of the girls were coloring, others were playing clapping games, and even a few of them were cheering the boys on, but none of them were playing soccer. When we stepped up to where the older children were playing I noticed that all of the boys were standing in a circle throwing a ball around, while only one girl was standing, and the rest of the girls were sitting. When gender discrepancies in recess activities in young children are so obvious, one cannot help but wonder if the children are being conditioned or encouraged towards playing soccer or sitting on the sidelines. Young children especially have minimal agency, so if is likely that they are being influenced by something. Is it their parents? Teachers? The popular male soccer teams? 

Additionally, when we went to the bar to watch the champions league final, the only women in the bar were waitresses. The bar was packed with men. Why is soccer watching also an all-male phenomenon? 

I grew up playing soccer on a co-Ed team (ages 5-10), which was encouraged and set up by my parents. Perhaps soccer playing is more co-Ed in the USA.

Making a present for my friends

 Two to three days before the end of this trip, I decided that I wanted to get everyone in the group a present, however, I had no idea what to get them. When thinking of what present to get them, I wanted it to be something that was memorable and thoughtful. Furthermore, I wanted the present to have an aspect of me, and after much thought and consideration, I decided I wanted to make a gift that dealt with music.

            Music for me has always been an easy way to express myself and I believe is an easy way to connect with people. An example of this is demonstrated with the Incan culture, playing various songs of their past so that they may continue traditions their ancestors have passed on. In a way, this idea demonstrates the ability of music connecting people from the past to the present. Do y’all think music is an effective way of communicating with individuals?

Is there a sense of community in Lima?

 During my little time in Lima, I noticed a pattern of the same people arriving and greeting each other in places like a restaurant or grocery stores. This pattern made me wonder and question, is there a community within a city? Cities are known for being large spaces where individuals don’t necessarily know each other, but I was seeing the opposite in Miraflores.

After noticing this trend, I went ahead and asked my professor since he grew up in this city and he told me that Miraflores is in fact a city with skyscrapers and very fast-paced in some respects, but in others, it's very much a slow life due to being close to the beach and home to many tourists. Additionally, he told me that depending on the restaurant, there are workers that still recognize him to this day, meaning that it very much has that sense of community.

However, to build this sense of community one needs to spend much time in Miraflores so that people can get know each other and this makes sense because people usually want to invest their time into people with who they can get closer and build a connection. Although the city of Miraflores is a city, a sense of community can be found with time and effort.  

Fashion in Peru

 The Fashion style in Lima, Peru is much different than what you see in the United States. To see this, however, one must leave the tourist part of town and move to where you can find the locals of Lima.

            Two to three days before I left Lima, I went to gather supplies and made a present for my friends, but in all honesty, gathering the supplies was a journey for me to see what normal life looks like for locals and specifically how they dress. I saw many people in suits and very nice clothing and I saw people in construction uniforms doing their job. A common trend that I witnessed from the locals in Peru was that they were all dressed in their work uniform, and this is probably because I went on a Wednesday at about mid-day, but even then, you could not find one single person in sweatpants. This confused me a bit because Miraflores is supposed to be a tourist place, yet I felt like I was seeing various locals.

            After I had a conversation with my professor about this and he told me that Miraflores is a place where companies fly out their workers so that they may have important meetings etc. This explanation makes sense since the workers were all dressed in suits as if they were going to meetings. As for the people who weren’t dressed that way, it’s still common to dress decently nice when going out. This ideology, however, isn’t found in the United States, and I find this very fascinating.

Fast Food Chains in Peru

 During my time in Peru, I have learned that franchise businesses there seem to be much larger than usual, specifically in the center of cities. I witnessed this idea while I was in Cusco and in Lima. Furthermore, I became curious, how come these fast-food franchises like Mcdonald's be two stories high? To answer this question, I went to a Mcdonald's in Cusco.

            While inside McDonald’s, the first thing I noticed was the price, and although it was a little cheaper when compared to the United States, it wasn’t that much cheaper. Furthermore, the Mcdonald's was packed with tourists specifically and I was shocked. Why are people coming to Mcdonald's when they can try other types of foods? At first, I didn’t understand this question but after some time in Peru, I came to understand.

            During my time in Peru, I had a lot of fun, spending time with amazing people and experiencing what makes Peru unique, however, I did start to feel a bit homesick at times and it was during these times that I found myself craving McDonald. From this experience I came to the consensus that, I only crave Mcdonald's during this time because it reminds me a bit of home, being a restaurant that’s also found in the United States. Now to answer the other question on why McDonald’s is two stories high is because Mcdonald's is decently expensive for locals and since rent is dependent on the local price, Mcdonald's is obtaining a lot of revenue. Although it may sound weird, the Mcdonald's in the center of a city is an expensive restaurant. Notice, how I say, “the McDonalds at the center of a city” and not “all McDonalds,” the reason for this is because I also went into McDonald's that was outside the center of the city and was shocked by the price difference. The price was less than half when compared to the one located in the city. Furthermore, this shows how restaurants and fast-food chains adapt to their environment and we can notice this in the menu as well, having different options depending on the country. Do y’all agree with my responses to both questions I had proposed?

Locals Attitude towards Foreigners speaking Spanish

Ever since our class arrived at Cusco, we have met many individuals from the town whether it be the waiters at the restaurant, our tour guides, or even just people on the street, and the first words that come out of people’s mouths are words in English. This is understandable because we don’t necessarily look like we are from around here, however, lots of times we then speak to the townspeople in Spanish so that they know we speak Spanish, and we are met with two answers: they either continue speaking in English or they ask us whether we speak Spanish.

            When the people from the town continue speaking English after we respond in Spanish, I could see them doing this for one of many reasons: they don’t necessarily believe we speak Spanish, they want us to feel more comfortable, and they want to practice their English, etc. However, I believe it’s more so the first option than anything since I would ask or simply speak Spanish if I were in their situation. What do y’all think about this? What is the main reason for them continuing to speak English after we have spoken in Spanish?

            As for the other option that I have said which is when people ask if we speak Spanish, this I find it good to do since it’s good to not assume these types of things. I also find that when people ask the individuals, they seem to be friendlier since they want to learn more about the individuals even if it’s as simple as knowing whether we know how to speak Spanish. What is y’all’s attitude when someone asks y’all if y’all speak Spanish?

Lights in the city of Cusco

During my time at the La Bom, which is in Cusco, Peru, I sat down to work on the little patio they have outside which overlooks a vast part of Cusco. While taking in the beauty of the city lights, I noticed how there would be fewer lights on the city's outskirts, which makes sense since those parts are not as populated, and thus there is less need for city lights. However, while looking at the city there would be areas that were completely dark but were surrounded by lights. This led me to question, why are there no lights in those areas? My initial thoughts were there might be some construction in these areas, and thus there might be some power outage. The amount of these “dark gaps,” however, did not add up with the construction theory. What do y’all think is the reason for these dark gaps?

            In addition to this, I noticed that the lights turned on relatively early for eastern time which makes sense because it’s on the border of the time zone. Furthermore, when they turned on, there were white lights rather than yellow lights on the outskirts of the city, and this reflects the time in which these lights were set up because Cusco is still an expanding city. This expansion makes me wonder, will they set up lights on the mountains themselves? Since the lights are slowly climbing the mountain.

Aguacaliente: Tourist Town

     Despite Machu Picchu being advertised as a city lost in the jungle, there is a very bustling town just at the base of the mountain. Aguacaliente, named after the hot springs located in the town, feels very manufactured. As one of the wonders of the world, Machu Picchu is a major tourist draw. This has lead to the town of Aguacaliente popping up so people can hang around before or after their journey to the city lost in time. 

    As a tourist town, there is a noticeable lack in quality of food (despite an increase in prices). The town can succeed due to proximity to Machu Picchu, without putting in the effort required of a larger, more established city, like Cusco or Lima. The town was very enjoyable for the one night, but any longer would have felt like too much. There is a fun night life scene with plenty of bars, as well as a soccer pitch with public access. The town is meant to be a draw for those who want somewhere to stay before their bus ride to Machu Picchu. Aguacaliente stands out as more of a tourist town due to the markets that are designed to look like they are traditional, but are mixed in the middle of a city that feels very modern.

Lima Beach

     While the beach in Lima may have been chilly, there was no shortage of surfers in the water. There also was no shortage of guys lined up on the sidewalk offering surfing lessons. It seems that a popular pastime in Miraflores is to go surfing, and many locals have taken advantage of the tourists looking to learn. When we walked down the beach, every two feet was a guy trying to sell us surfing lessons. They all seemed to have the same pitch too. The prices were similar, all of them offered equipment and similar length lessons, and all of them had an Instagram to show us.

    I did not end up going surfing, but I was wondering how they differentiate themselves enough to find customers. It seems as though the demand is high enough that they simply just need to wait for people to come and they will find customers. In the United States, there would be more distance between rival instructors, as well as some variability in what they could offer. Here they almost seem to feed off each other. The fact that it was a popular surfing beach likely means there are enough surfers looking to learn that they do not need to compete. By grouping together they attract the attention of those who want to find lessons, and it becomes easier to know where the surfing instructors are.

Cuy

When I was younger, my older sister had a pet guinea pig named Mr. Bubbles. Mr. Bubbles was everything a pet is supposed to be: adorable, furry, and easy to take care of for a teenage girl. Little did I know, before coming to Peru, that the beloved furry, big-cheeked pets that we in North America have learned to come and love as domestic pets are, in fact, raised more like livestock in South American countries such as Peru and Ecuador. In these countries, guinea pigs are referred to as cuy and they are often grilled, fried, and roasted for cuisine purposes. 

Cuy is majorly important to the culture of Peru, as I saw multiple times throughout my trip. In the main cathedral in the Cusco Plaza de Armas, one can find a painting painted by Marcos Zapata entitled La Ultima cena in which Jesus and his 12 disciples are sitted around a dinner table eating, you guessed it, a sacrificed cuy. In the cooking practice of pachamanca, a method that utilized earthen ovens, cuy is often prepared and sold as a delicacy. 

When I tried cuy myself, I compared it to bird meat, such as turkey or chicken. It is often compared to rabbit meat, as well, even though I haven't ever eaten rabbit. I'm glad I got to try it and it was actually quite tasty! My mom sent me pictures of Mr. Bubbles, later, after I told her I ate one. She's trying to guilt trip me...

Evolution of Stray Dogs

Visiting India when I was only 8 years old, I was heartbroken by how many stray dogs there were. My sad little wannabe veterinarian heart just wanted to adopt them all. I even told my family that when I was an adult, I would come back and help vaccinate them all and give them good homes. Coming to Cusco, I had a similar first impression. All around Cusco, there are dogs. Some are just running around, others are taking naps under benches, on the sidewalk, or even in the middle of the street. At first I felt sympathy, concerned for them being out all night in the cold. But as I looked a bit closer, I noticed many of them had collars or sweaters, and realized many of them had owners. Instead of being simple stray dogs, these dogs had integrated themselves into their society.

When I returned to India 5 years after that first time, I still saw so many stray dogs. However, like Cusco, I saw that some of them now had owners. Even my family in India, who had scoffed at the idea of owning dogs 5 years before, now owned a dog. Now it was quite a different relationship than how we have dogs in the U.S.. The dog may have lived in the house, but it did not receive the sort of affection we regularly give our dogs in the U.S.. But it still did live in their house, and was cared for by my cousins. If I had to guess, I would think Cusco is following the same progression as India. If I visited Cusco 10 years ago, I bet the dogs wouldn’t be owned at that time, but just roaming and living on the streets. Along that same line of thought, if I visit the city in the future, I hope and think that dogs will continue to earn their place in society. I hope the dogs live even more in their houses than on the street, and that they are all clean, vaccinated, and taken care of by a vet (there are currently very few vets in Cusco as they are not used often). The integration of dogs into the civilian home to me seems like a sign of modernity; as places like Cusco and India get more modern, dogs become more like pets than pests. In the future, I would love to visit these places, along with others, to see if my theory is true.

Passion Fruit in Peru

Coming to Peru, I really had no idea what to expect. What would it look like? What would the people be like? Friendly like the Midwesterners I was so familiar with? So many things were a complete surprise. However, one of the things I was most surprised by was the popularity of passionfruit. Since the U.S. barely has any passionfruit at all, much less any authentic passionfruit, I had never tried it. But at every single restaurant we went to in those three weeks, there was some sort of passionfruit offered. Juice, soda, ice cream, dessert, there was passionfruit everywhere I turned. On my first day in Peru, only hours after arriving in Cusco, I tried a sip of passion fruit juice from a friend and immediately fell in love with it. I spent the next few weeks trying all the passionfruit I could find, but it made me wonder, why doesn’t the U.S. have passionfruit? After all, even the fake passion fruit tea at Starbucks is incredibly popular. Wouldn’t real passionfruit sell so well here? Apparently, passion fruit is difficult to import to the U.S. and because of that it is extremely expensive and harder to find, making it much less popular. On the other hand, Peru is the world's leading exporter of passion fruit, making it both inexpensive, readily available, and popular. Leaving Peru, I know I will sorely miss passion fruit. Even on my last night, I made sure to have a nice passion fruit juice, knowing it was unlikely I could find one in the U.S.. I hope one day passion fruit catches on here so I can enjoy a nice glass of passion fruit juice in my kitchen each morning.

Chifa

The first night we arrived in Cusco, I noticed a Chifa restaurant. Chifa is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian elements. Throughout our time in Cusco, I noticed more and more Chifa restaurants on the streets. I wondered why there were so many in Peru. It seemed like out of all the foreign food restaurants, Chifa restaurants were the most common in Peru. I decided to look into the history of Peru’s immigration.

The Chinese immigrants were called coolies. Between 1849 and 1874, more than 100,000 coolies arrived in Peru as indentured servants. This was around the same time of the emancipation of slaves in Peru in 1854 and the need for more laborers.

In the 1800s, there was a lack of racial identification of the coolies. There was lots of mixing in between different races and the coolies since the coolies that migrated were mostly male. Unfortunately, no racial identity was created for people who mixed with the coolies. Many historians believed this meant there was a lack of place in society for those of Chinese descent. However, when I was filling out health forms in Peru for my covid test, I noticed there was a checkbox for Asiatico Descendiente. 

It is estimated that around 5% of the Peruvian population today is of Chinese descent. However, only around 14,000 Peruivans self-report themselves as tusán (of Chinese descent). This may be due in part to the fact that the Peruvian government did not create a racial identity for those who were a mix of coolian. 

Walking in the Non-Touristy Part of Cusco

On the day after our classes had ended, a group of us decided we wanted to go play basketball. We had one problem: we did not have a basketball. We looked up the nearest sports tienda and started walking. 

The closer we got to our destination, the more city-like the streets became. The massage ladies appeared less frequently until there were no more on the streets. The tourist shops turned into services and businesses. There were less hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions. It became a regular hustling city. I watched children coming back from school, people running errands, people working. It was so cool to see non-touristy Cusco. There were a few things that stood out to me.

All of the shops and services were organized in an unusual manner. All of the same shops and services were in buildings next to each other. For example, when walking down one street, I saw 5 different bakeries right next to each other. I thought that was a little strange. Then we kept walking, and I saw eyeglass store after eyeglass store. Then we arrived at a place that was all clothing. All the shoe stores were right next to each other, separate from the other clothes. The shops and the services were organized in a convenient way: all of the same types in the same place.

Another interesting thing was how all of the street vendors disappeared. They were only found in the touristy parts of Cusco because they are only meant for tourists. Walking through the streets without being constantly approached and yelled at was refreshing. This reminds me of New York. One will only find the street vendors in the touristy parts of New York like Times Square.

I enjoyed seeing a different side of Cusco. I enjoyed getting to see real people going about their daily lives in Cusco.

Religious Syncretism

 

Perhaps the most prominent reoccurring theme throughout our trip through Peru was the presence of religious syncretism in every day, daily life. From the Cusco Cathedral in the Plaza de Armas to the paintings it contains from the Cusco School (such as the Ultima Cena painting, which totally depicts Jesus and his twelve disciples consuming Cuy), the country is packed with elements that blend together the Spanish, Catholic traditions with that of Indigenous Andean cultures. 

Nowhere stronger was this seen, in my opinion, than in the city of Pisac. In Pisac, our group attended a Catholic mass in Quechua, the Indigenous language of the Inca Empire. Being Catholic myself, I followed along reasonably well, proving the universality that Catholicism attempts to create. Along with the Indigenous language, many of the churchgoers, particularly those who were part of the, much to our surprise, wedding service that was going on that Sunday, was dressed in the vibrant colors of traditional Indigenous clothing. 

Another mode of religious syncretism that our group experienced in Pisac was through a religious procession throughout the town that occurred later that night. A group of churchgoers moved an icon of a saint from one church to another, banging drums and playing other instruments typical to Indigenous Peruvians throughout the town. At the second church, the group stopped and danced for quite a long time, sharing drinks and food and an overall vibe of exuberance and camaraderie. Overall, experiencing this religious syncretism was a highlight of the trip! 

Covid in Cusco

The day before, the group had traveled to visit Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain). It sits at an elevation about 5000 feet higher than the elevation in Cusco. Although the hike was tough at times, I still was able to complete the hike relatively well.

I woke up the next morning, so exhausted that it took me over an hour to get out of bed. I lethargically walked to the bathroom. I was so tired once I got there that I had to sit down to brush my teeth. When I walked out of the bathroom, I needed to sit down and take a break on my bed. I hypothesized that I was getting delayed altitude sickness. I went to class like normal, and I ate a small lunch. After lunch, I decided to spend the rest of the day in my room to recover for Machu Picchu (we were leaving the next day). As I started coughing and my muscles started aching, I decided it was time to take a Covid test. 

I was positive. I was devastated. I traveled all the way to Peru and I was not going to be able to visit Machu Picchu. After the initial shock, it was time to start figuring out the logistics. I had Covid in a foreign country; I did not know what the policies were here.

Everyone was so accommodating. What surprised me the most was how helpful Elena, the owner of the hotel, was. She took it into her own hands to offer me food, to bring medicine to me, to make sure I was feeling alright. Elena was not just worried about Covid in her hotel, she was concerned about and cared for me. This was treatment that I know I would not have received from a hotel owner in the United States.

During the peak of my infection, I decided to see a doctor. The appointment was on whatsapp. The doctor was so friendly. He called three more times after the original appointment to check up on me. He also informed me that the oxygen levels I was extremely worried about were in fact good for having Covid and being in Cusco. This was something both relieving and surprising to me. It was also very quick to get in touch with the doctor. Elena helped set up the appointment and only after 30 minutes of waiting, I was already on call with the doctor. The call was also later in the evening outside of typical office hours. 

I firmly believe that my Covid experience in Cusco is different from what I would have experienced in the states because of the difference in oxygen levels, the accommodation of the hotel owner, and the quick and friendly availability of the doctor. 

Demonstration for Democracy

 

While eating at the Morena Peruvian Kitchen located on the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru, our table heard loud shouts and honks coming from right outside the window. To our surprise, we saw a large group, carrying a large Peruvian flag banner, participating in a protest against the current presidential administration. As you can see by the photo I took, which reads "Castillo is not my president, he is a delinquent" in English (it rhymes pretty cleverly in Spanish), there are many that are upset by the current president and his government. 

The marchers were marching for democracy, but even more so they were marching against communism and the leftist ideology that President Castillo practices. Peru's leftward drift, as we have learned in class, starting with the dictator Juan Velasco Alvarado in 1968. Ever since then, as Professor Falconí explained, Peru has had leftist governments with much instability, causing the sentiment shared among this group. 

I myself call myself a leftist, but this demonstration had me questioning my own beliefs. Obviously, there are tangible and coherent reasons behind this group's sentiments and actual problems that still occur in Peru. On the other hand, however, I recognize that the group seemed to be mostly coming from the middle class and I cannot imagine that many of the much-poorer Peruvians, such as many in the Indigenous population, share similar views with them. All in all, it was interesting to see the police in riot gear, although the protest was completely peaceful. This demonstration allowed myself for a more nuanced view of Peruvian politics and has encouraged me to learn more about Peruvian history and society. 

Peruvian Plaza Protest

 

    Walking back to our hotel one evening, our group spotted a demonstration occurring in La Plaza de Armas. During this protest, a group of Peruvians marched around the plaza carrying a large Peruvian flag. The majority of these protestors also wore red and white clothing while carrying red and white signs, likely a symbol of national solidarity to match the flag. From reading the signs, we quickly realized that this demonstration was in defiance of Peru's president, Castillo. The sign in the photo says, "Castillo no es mi Presidente. Es un delincuente." Other messages condemned communism and promoted democracy. Several police officers watched over the protest, likely to prevent escalation. Furthermore, the protestors played instruments and chanted, which contributed to the theme of rallying together around a commonality. When our group approached the protest, we were welcomed despite having no connections, and everyone involved seemed to be behaving peacefully. 

    Even in the most tourist-heavy part of Cuzco, the locals took to the streets for a demonstration that defied the atmosphere typically catering so heavily to foreigners. Although I am well-acquainted with political activism in the United States, I had never experienced a demonstration so closely abroad. After witnessing this protest, I was curious if there was another side to the story. Frankly, I am not knowledgeable enough about contemporary Peruvian politics, so I am curious if the protestors represented the majority opinion or not. Regardless, I could gauge that such protesting is allowed as long as there is no violence, which helped me to contextualize the freedom of speech afforded to Peruvians. One other observation that I had was the lack of Quechua. Both the signs and the chants were in Castilian, and no one wore typical indigenous garb. Since national politics affects all the citizens, I am curious as to what demographics were represented at this protest. Nonetheless, I appreciated seeing such an honest display, regardless of my political ignorance. 

Shopping Malls in Cusco

 We walked around the mall in Cusco today, and I found it to be a very interesting experience, especially as somebody coming from a country where shopping culture is very prevalent. I think that one of the main reasons that the US has such large malls is that there is a culture around shopping where people just do it for fun or aim for excess instead of simply what someone needs. Also, there’s the idea that for a mall to open, there has to be an economic infrastructure big enough to support it, from stores being interested in renting storefronts to there being ways to get to the mall itself, and enough electricity and water to power the whole thing. From what Andre told us about the city of Cusco and what it used to be 10 years ago, I can see why having a mall open here was a big deal. It definitely represents a move forward in Cuscos capitalist  infrastructure that implies the city is progressing economically. 

That being said, this was a very different experience than that of an American mall. What I noticed most was the lack of more international stores, which I have even seen in most other countries that I have visited, even in smaller malls. There were also a lot of of stores for more practical things, like hardware, electronics, and baby clothes that pointed towards this being less of a traditional mall with more variety, and more of a building to house different utilities. It more reminded me of a target/ giant/ Costco in the shape of a mall in the sense that there weren’t they many alternatives to many of the products being sold. 

The last thing I noticed was that the Starbucks was priced like it would be in the United States (though in the soles equivalent). A coffee with all of the fancy stuff cost as much as some of our nice meals. The storefront was almost empty, with only a few tourists choosing to buy coffee, which kind of put the whole store in perspective. I know people at Vanderbilt that rack up 100 dollar bills a month on their coffees, and that’s probably eating out good food for a week here.

The Tourist Experience at Machu Picchu

Prior to going to Machu Picchu, Professor Falconí said the thing he liked least about it was how touristy it was. However, I was certainly not prepared for how touristy it actually was. Right off the bat in Aguas Calientes, we went to a restaurant for breakfast prior to taking the bus up. There, Anna overheard two girls saying to each other “What even is Machu Picchu?” And the other replied “I don’t know, some old town or something”. To me, the fact that people go to Machu Picchu without having even some semblance of appreciation for the culture that is preserved there is astounding. Why would you even go and spend money on this if you don’t truly appreciate it? Then, in line for the bus, a man approached the group asking if we needed a tour guide. Professor responded that we already had a guide, and to this the man said “I am your guide!”. Suspicious, Professor asked for his name, which was apparently Carlos, yet our tour guide was supposed to be named Wilson (rip Wilson). Without even an ounce of shame, Carlos vaguely gestured around saying some woman had told him we needed a guide, and eventually walked away. The whole interaction was truly ridiculous. In all the other incan sites we visited, nothing similar to this had occurred. The nature of how touristy Machu Picchu is was the cause of this incident. 

When we finally made it up to Machu Picchu, this touristy nature of the trip only continued. It was 2 soles to go to the restroom (isn’t this a bodily right? This seems very wrong to me), and past the gate, there were employees stationed all around just watching people. It seemed that their only job was to prevent people from doing anything but walk along the path. Anna sat on a rock (not one closed off or anything), and this man had the audacity to blow his whistle and make her get off. Apparently having fun is not permitted at Machu Picchu, it is an observation only experience. I’m not even going to go into our real tour guide Wilson, who told us the most boring fake stories about Machu Picchu possible. I’m wondering now if we should’ve just gone with Carlos. Seriously, I am so grateful that we had actually studied the history a little bit before coming, otherwise I probably would've believed his crap. Seeing Machu Picchu was incredible, and the history and sights themselves were surreal. However, the tourist experience did make me wish I could’ve come before it became so popular. The tour especially just felt so inauthentic, and made me question everything around me.

Las Apachetas!

 While we were hiking through Rainbow Mountain, we came across an open space, filled with small towers of rocks, that Carlos, our guide, jokingly called “El Valle de Apachetas”. According to Carlos, these were used as a sort of connection to the earth. The word Apacheta comes from the Quechua “Apachita”, which roughly means “source where the flow begins”. They are often found along hiking trails or even the sides of the road. Travelers would build these Apachetas as a way of asking Mother Earth, or Pachamama, for her protection throughout their travels. They would even often leave offerings such as coca leaves under the Apachetas, asking her to remove obstacles from their paths. These creations can be very small (see mine on the left), or very large (see a previously built one on the right). It is thought that these originally come from the incas, and there are some people who say they used Apachetas as some sort of representation of order. These people say Apachetas were used to divide and mark sectors throughout the inca empire, however there is not necessarily evidence for this. 

Today, Apachetas are not only found in Peru but across all the Andes as travelers ask for their journeys to be calm and unimpeded. Once again, our adventures show us how integrated incan culture is in Peru. Although the incas and their religion no longer exist/are practiced, somehow their culture and traditions are still preserved and respected. In “El Valle de Apachetas”, each of us took a moment to build our own, asking La Pachamama for a safe rest of our hike, and simply appreciating the beauty and history of the location we were in.

El arcoíris

In the United States, rainbows are overwhelmingly a sign of positivity. Songs like “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” or “Rainbow Connection” describe rainbows as beacons of hope for the future. However, in Peru rainbows are seen as the opposite: signs of bad luck. With the unpredictability of Peruvian weather, and prevalence of rain through even the dry season, rainbows are extremely common. In only one week, I have seen two rainbows. According to our hiking guide in Pisac, people would in fact avoid looking at rainbows in order to escape the bad luck they supposedly bring. This belief is thought to come from the myth of the Amaru, an evil two headed serpent representative of the world of the dead. Because of this, during Incan times, rainbows were seen as a physical representation of the Amaru during the day. In fact, the end of the rainbow was thought to be the entrance to hell, and therefore rainbows became synonymous with death. 

In the U.S., the rarity of rainbows makes them special, and therefore positive. However, because they are so common here in Cusco, they no longer bring this positive sentiment. Additionally, in my opinion, the fact that something as beautiful as a rainbow can be considered evil is representative of Peruvian culture. To us, we have an inherent belief that something that beautiful could not possibly be bad. However, it is possible that the history of Peru (and the Incas), has led to a distrust of such beauty. I believe the symbolism of the rainbow in each culture represents fundamental differences in our belief systems. Going to Lima, being close to the coast, I wonder if rainbows will be so common there, and what people’s opinions on them will be.

La Cusqueñita

 La Cusqueñita was a pretty neat restaurant. It was probably the first restaurant that we were going to that was authentic, traditional food from Cusco. Everything we’ve had prior was some gentrified non-traditional food like pasta or pizza near the most touristic areas of the city. La Cusqueñita was a bit of a distance away, hidden in a semi unbusy street away from the main tourist spot. Once inside, the setting looked very homey. The decor was modest, with sculptures and artwork that paid homage to traditional Peruvian and Incan culture. 

The food was delicious. The first time I was able to see fried Cuy on the table, although I didn’t partake in it too much. I ate milanesa de pollo, which was a modest meal to try, and was very good. Alcoholic Chicha was also given, which was sweet and void of any alcoholic aftertaste. The table was filled with food, and the servers were quite nice. The food was very filling, and at a very affordable price. It was a great experience, and the Peruvian hospitality was very comforting. 

The dances were quite the spectacle. Every five to ten minutes, a song would begin to play as a group of dancers all took a stage at the front center of the room. They all wore elaborate costumes that complemented one another, performing dances that involved physical interaction and a sort of roughhousing play. All the dances had a unique context that fit into traditional Peruvian folklore, from devil-esque to puma masks and intricate dresses and suits that fit into the tone of each song. Masks were typical in many of the dances, with one of the dances having masks that seemed to resemble the masks at the Quyllurit'i ancestral festival that occurs annually in the region of Cusco. This festival is a typical demonstration of the syncretism of the Andean religion and Catholicism, a significant component of society and culture in the city of Cusco. If not mistaken, the masks in the ceremonial dances of the festival are intended to replicate the jungle Indians in Peru to enact ceremonially the connection between the highlands in Cusco, and the jungle lowlands where, it is believed, the ancient Inca ancestors now reside. The other dances were also very entertaining, with playful roughhousing including wrestling and the using of whips. I don’t know why they did that, but I'd like to know. One of the last dances involved some girl appearing seductive in a mask. she motioned for me to kiss her cheek - I don’t know why I listened. She turned at the last second, and I kissed the wooden mask on the lips. Pretty embarrassing. I guess that was part of the act.

Overall, a cool experience. The staff was very kind, and the atmosphere was super cordial. There were families eating all over the room, and it felt peaceful to eat among one another, occasionally sharing laughs and smiles at the ceremonial dances. It was an experience that I don’t think many other places can replicate, and I think that’s why the community continues to return to share a bit of their heritage and community with others. I’d like to know why the dances became such an integral part of the dining experience. Why did they choose to perform the ceremonial dances? Why were some so overtly playful and rough, albeit entertaining?

Mapacho: A Mixed Experience

 In South America, the plant nicotiana rustica is often referred to by its more common name mapacho. The plant is traditionally used for spiritual purposes, as it is entheogenic, primarily by South American shamans. For this reason, the plant is often associated with brujeria (or witchcraft) and can sometimes carry a negative perception around it. Containing tobacco and nicotine, mapacho is similar to cigarettes and cigars, except that it includes up to nine times the amount of nicotine found in common tobacco. Due to its high nicotine percentage, it is also commonly used as a pesticide. 

I wish I had known this fact before my friend, Alex, decided to hand me my own fat mapacho cigar to smoke. I've smoked cigarettes in the States every now and then (although by no means am I a smoker). The mapacho flavor isn't exactly one to call home about, but the buzz you get off of it is nice. However, I would not advise anyone who is a stranger to nicotine and tobacco products to smoke one on their own, as afterward, I came down with an intense case of nicotine sickness that included (and perhaps I'm oversharing here) a vomiting session in a Peruvian McDonalds. The rest of the night, I was pale and felt nauseous. 

Lesson learned: don't smoke mapacho if you can't handle it. Perhaps leave it to the shamans. 

Chango Club: A Social Melting Pot

    Besides the historic daytime activities suitable for all ages in Cuzco, the nightlife showcases the more modern, youthful, and adult side of the iconic city. Looking to experience a Peruvian discoteca, we found ourselves in Chango Club, a nightclub literally underground with all the typical layout of a dance floor and a bar. What made this spot interesting, however, was undoubtedly the social scene. Inside, we encountered a wide variety of nationalities, with people hailing from the U.S., the U.K., Israel, and (of course) Peru among other places. Sure, there were a handful of tourists, but I learned that a lot of the Israeli youth come to Peru to complete their mandatory military service. Even walking over to the nightclub, I noticed several restaurants with their names written in Hebrew, a clear indication of Jewish influence in Cuzco. Overall, these observations solidified my idea of Cuzco as a cosmopolitan city. 

    Furthermore, our group met two Peruvian men who were uncomfortably insistent on taking selfies alongside tourists from the U.S. and U.K. Still, the nightclub seemed to be cognizant of the variety of groups represented. For instance, the DJ often took to playing a mix of both Latin-American and U.S. tracks. Once again, I witnessed how U.S. culture, especially music, has proliferated across the globe, as many songs featured from former U.S. top 40 lists.  Nonetheless, there was no shortage of vocals in Spanish, and ultimately, I suppose the purpose of music in a nightclub is to raise the energy of the crowd. Likewise, I know that many people, myself included, can listen to a song in a language completely foreign (say, a monolingual English speaker listening to an Arabic song) and still appreciate all the musical elements. In this sense, I saw Chango Club as fostering social cohesion. In most other cases, linguistic or geographic barriers would inhibit connection. Yet, people here find a way to make friends by dancing with strangers from entirely different cultures. 

 

Wilson

 The most elite tour-guide ever. His sense of history was so bad that as soon as I started to realize he wasn’t making sense, I just started to have fun with him. He’s actually a pretty cool guy. Whenever he’s not giving the most inaccurate descriptions of Machu Picchu to gullible American tourists, he waits tables in the city of Cusco. I think. Peru runs in his veins, having been born and raised in Cusco.  

Wilson drank Chicha as he walked up to greet us. I thought that was so sick. He exuded nonchalance, as if he didn’t care. And he didn’t. He talked about 9 foot Incas.. That’s actually insane. He said Machu Picchu was a university, which I don’t know where he heard that from. Our professor looked pretty annoyed at the turnout of the tour, but I was kind of excited. I wanted to see how much more ridiculous it could get. The smirk on his face as he looked at us through his sunglasses made me think he thought we were dumb, but by his standards, I guess we were. He also wandered off several times. We found him like a few hundred feet away on his phone while we were just trying to enjoy ourselves. He would just walk ahead without us. Dude did not care at all.

I guess you could say something about how incompetent some tourguides can be. Or perhaps the tourists are incompetent. By the looks of how some Americans act internationally, I’m guessing we get the bad rap. Regardless, I wasn’t gonna travel all the way to the place to hear about 9 foot humans, so I stopped listening to him. Regardless, he was cool to talk to. He’s a chiller, just terrible at giving tours. I’d have invited him out for a beer if we had more time. 

In conclusion, maybe the ministry of culture should make their qualifications a little more specific for hiring tour guides for Machu Picchu. Should they hire more people like Wilson? His sense of humor surely made up for the tour. Maybe Americans should learn to have a little bit more fun, even if it means hearing the most inaccurate description of Machu Picchu. I don’t know.

Real Plaza Cuzco

     As an American, the word "mall" tends to conjure up images of a dying trend. With the influx of online retailers, these large in-person shopping centers seem to be on the way out. Though malls in the United States certainly perform their fair share of commerce, the golden age of collectivized retail seems to have migrated to the internet, where e-commerce completely removes the need for browsing thanks to convenient search tools and rapid shipping. However, many Latin American countries seem to be following the model once created by the United States, and here in Peru, the Real Plaza mall shows no signs of decline. Despite only being constructed two years ago and containing a much smaller number of stores than its U.S. counterparts, Real Plaza appears to be thriving as the first destination of its kind in Cuzco. With restaurants, retail outlets, a movie theater, and an arcade, I could not help but notice how similar Real Plaza is to an American mall.

    While the shopping center certainly has its share of stores unique to Latin America, I was captivated by the breadth of U.S. chains proliferated throughout the location such as KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Mcdonald's, Merrel, Colombia, and The North Face among others. Even the movie theater presented offerings of the latest U.S. blockbusters. Given the U.S.'s global status as the cultural hegemon, I considered how the "mall" represented another export. Still, I do not wish to detract from how the mall still catered to Peruvian consumers. Local chains, popular foods, and Latinamerican enterprises all found a home in Real Plaza. Despite the variety of U.S. products, the mall seemed to have no intention of attracting tourists. Why would it need to when the shops find plenty of business from the city's inhabitants? Even if the "mall" originated in the U.S., no one holds a monopoly on grouping together stores in a single location. Overall, I appreciated experiencing this modern development in a historic city, as Real Plaza, strangely enough, provided a break from the tourist-heavy part of Cuzco. 

Pisac Q'allaqasa

 As we walked up the mountain side up to the ancient city of Pisac, one could see how large the agricultural terraces were made to be. They were huge steps carved into the mountainside that could support the harvesting of large amounts of crops. The steps stretched from the very bottom of the mountain to the very top, with jutting rocks acting as stairs to support the ascent or descent of any farmer tending to the terraces. The mountain that held the city contained multiple terraces, all with the intention of offering structural stability to the city at the top or for farming crops like corn or potatoes. 

Nearing the top of the mountain, we began to see the stone buildings that were the center of the citadel. There were few other areas where a group of buildings were clustered on the mountainside, but the top seemed to be the center of the ancient city. Walking through the ancient ruins, one could tell how elaborate each structure or room of a building was intended to be. They each served their intended function. A large, naturally-occuring, unsculpted rock that jutted out of the ground was at the approximate center of the buildings. It had carvings at its base that resembled that of a seat, which were actually used as placeholders for offerings, likely for success on the season’s harvest or for other expressions of gratitude towards the earth, or Pachamama. From the top, the view was pretty incredible. One could look into the modern town of Pisac from above, and the valley that encased the small city stretched into the distance. To the other side, large mountains surrounded us, with the valley extending as flat ground or hills in each direction. It was super serene and we all took some time to take the scene in. 

As we began our descent, we saw other features of the ancient city, such as small buildings for food storage. These buildings hugged the steep mountainside, and seemed almost impossible to get to considering the angle of the terrain. We also observed more terraces facing the city, with the descending trail offering more views of the terraced mountain-side. Comparing the ancient Pisac at the top of the mountain to its Spanish counterpart at its base was interesting, since they were obviously so different. How easy was it for the Spaniards to conquer the Incan stronghold, if so difficult to access? Also, how did the Spaniards make any use of the ancient city or its terraces, if at all?

Cusco Mall

     After our trip to the mall in Cusco, I noticed that there seemed to be very few categories of different stores. I primarily saw large department stores, but also ice cream shops, athletic wear, phone stores, pharmacies, and baby stores. There were a few other stores outside of these categories, but these were the biggest sections represented. The mall is a direct reflection of what is valued by the typical Cusco consumer. Malls are usually built more out of luxury than necessity, and this mall showed that. There were McDonalds and Burger King stands that only sold ice cream, showing that they were meant for fun, not a full meal. The movie theater and arcade also demonstrated that even though there is much poverty in Cusco, there is still a need for entertainment. Athletic shops also show that there is an importance placed on time having fun playing sports. There was even a section just for taking trendy pictures.

    The "fun" stores were surrounded by ones that represented more basic needs of a less wealthy population. The department stores were full of furniture and different types of food, things that everyone needs. The baby stores are indicative of the need to take care of the youth. Adults tend to not grow out of clothing, so the stores of baby clothing and pre-teen clothing represent buying out of need, when the children grow at a faster rate and need more clothes more often. The dichotomy between entertainment and need in the mall show how Cusco is trending towards catering to the tourists, while still being supported by the local population.

Spiritual Enterprises in Cuzco: Commodification or Coexistence?

     Upon arriving in Cuzco, one of my first impressions consisted of the spiritual undertones present throughout many of the locations. When I say spiritual, I simply mean anything related to religious traditions. More specifically, I have noticed stores lined with Christian artwork right next door to more "shamanic" offerings such as entheogenic ceremonies. Even traces of Eastern spirituality seem to bear their heads from time to time, as I have seen a fair number of yoga studios and Buddhist statues. Furthermore, it is impossible to walk more than 10 minutes in the city without running into a church. Although Peru is officially a Catholic country, I am amazed by the co-existence of such diverse spiritual influences. Cuzco, specifically, seems to have a markedly syncretic approach to religious beliefs. 

    However, sometimes I notice these spiritual offerings can feel overly "New Age" and commercial. While I do not believe that products related to religion---such as art, relics, or services---are inherently unethical, I have noticed that some things appear to be commodified or geared toward the tourists. This reality is likely the case because of the wealth contained within the Cuzco tourism industry and the influx of locals migrating to the city to escape poverty. Contained within the population of tourists appears to be this dichotomy of older individuals and younger "hippies," the latter likely playing into the offerings of "spiritual tourism." For example, some tourists will pay thousands of dollars to go on retreats in Peru, so is it any wonder why the locals try to capitalize on that market? Any sufficiently large tourist destination will inevitably create commercial entities with tourism in mind, and Cuzco is no exception. Doing further research, I discovered how a lot of travel agencies refer to Cuzco as "the world's capital for mysticism." From first-hand experience, I can certainly see how the city caters to the tagline. 

Celebration in Pisac

    We were searching for a place to eat in the main plaza in the town of Pisac when we started to hear a beating drum and flute-like musical notes. It was emanating from the church a few hundred feet away, and a small crowd of people began to form. It was already dark and the rest of the plaza was barren, which caused some confusion at what was thought to be an otherwise quiet, empty town square during the late evening. Curiously, we wandered over to the church, where we found a procession of people elevating the figure of a saint over the steps of the church and out into the plaza. The saint and its procession were headed to a smaller church on the edge of the town, where dozens of people were to gather, drink, eat, and celebrate the annual event of the saint in Pisac. The beating drum and the chorus steadily followed the group carrying the saint and the dozens of people surrounding it as they walked out into the street and towards the end of the plaza. Surprised by this, we decided to follow them to the smaller church in hopes of capturing a small glimpse of the religious following in the Incan relic of the Pisac community.

    The procession led to the outside of the small church where families gathered themselves around a fire and a large clearing, where a man with a hardhat and yellow poncho with a whip began to dance and skip around for everybody to see. The musical formation sat in one of the corners, continuing to play their music as people began to fill in the surroundings. fireworks began to explode overhead as the party commenced. We eventually decided to grab dinner, but came back about an hour or so later to see what had developed from the festivities. This time, the scene was a bit different. The music had stopped, the music group was busy eating, as was everybody else. People occupied themselves with the food and drinks, taking time in between to talk and laugh with their family, friends, and other community members. Several minutes later, the music had resumed and people continued sharing moments with the community, either eating, talking, or simply just observing the scene. Meanwhile, the figure of the saint was at the open doors of the church, as if watching over the festivities.

    It was interesting to see the value that the community placed on the saint. After all, it was the entire reason they had come out to celebrate. Hadn’t it been for its celebration, there would be no motivation or desire for the community to come out and share endearing moments with one another. Catholicism appeared to be the lifeblood behind the community, a devotion formerly reserved for the religion of the Incan empire many centuries ago. Over the course of many generations, it seemed the catholic influence had left its imprint on an Incan community. The result was a combination of the two heritages that celebrated both religions and allowed the community to express themselves in a way that commemorated two vastly different faiths. I was curious to know: How had the religious mixture evolved over the course of several centuries? Was it an evolution characterized by catholic domination over that of the Incan religion? It seemed so, to an extent. How did the community of Pisac maintain any semblance of Incan influence in a practice otherwise dominated by catholic influence?

La sagrada familia, la catedral de Cusco, y la iglesia de triunfo

  The group of churches in la plaza de armas was by far the most salient, outstanding feature of the area. They stood over all other buildings, imposing their authority and presence in an ancient city center that revolved around Catholicism. One large cathedral standing on the southern eastern side was called the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, ornate with brick of a copper-like color, and complete with golden accents. The structure was extremely symmetric, with clocks and crosses mirroring each other. Just above the door at the center stood a figure of Jesus or a saint. To the northeastern side stood a monolith of a church, of which we entered. This church was a group of three different churches, which included La sagrada Familia to the very left, la catedral de Cusco at the center, and la Iglesias de triunfo to the very right. The colors and structure of the churches looked marginally similar, all boasting the same dull copper colored brick, with the main cathedral being brighter in brick color, and much larger than its surrounding counterparts. 

         La Iglesias de triunfo was constructed in response to the Spanish victory over the Incan empire at the citadel of Sacsayhuaman. It boasted a symmetric chiseled brick altar on both sides of the entrance, resembling scripture that gave symbolic representations of the Virgin Mary in protecting the Spaniards and assisting them in defeating the Incan empire. The top of the church is decorated with bells and a cross at the center. The inside of the churches was even more fascinating than its exterior architecture. Inside of the Iglesias de triunfo, multiple murals decorated the ceiling and its surrounding walls, depicting several circumstances that generally revolved around the conquest of the Incan empire. Murals depicted Jesus, the virgin Mary, and God as assisting Spaniards - complete with their weapons and horses - in subjugating the Incas. The layout of the church was like any other: rows of seats leading to a platform at the front where a vertically large altar depicted the virgin Mary, Jesus, and several saints. The same alters dotted the periphery of the church, complete with different saints and other ornate features. This was generally the same for la sagrada Familia and the main cathedral, except everything was significantly larger in the main cathedral. It had altars several times bigger than that of the other churches, in addition to similar murals that depicted the subjugation of Incas.

         It was thought-provoking to walk through the churches and see what altars had been constructed. This was formerly Incan territory, and Spaniards had pillaged and desecrated everything belonging to them, creating large catholic altars and murals depicting Incan defeat in return. Incans had also been forced to create such murals depicting their own defeat, considering Spaniards saw it as a dishonor to commit to manually intensive labor. It felt as if the religious and cultural identity in Cusco was highly ambiguous. Once known as the capital of the great Incan empire, huge altars and churches were built for Incans at that time to be forced into worshiping, which has extended for many generations into what is now current-day Cusco. Are locals opinionated in how they feel about these depictions about what is generally the desecration of the sacred values of their ancestors? Moreover, can anything even be done or amended to reduce what is, in my opinion, a huge insult to Incan culture?