La Cusqueñita

 La Cusqueñita was a pretty neat restaurant. It was probably the first restaurant that we were going to that was authentic, traditional food from Cusco. Everything we’ve had prior was some gentrified non-traditional food like pasta or pizza near the most touristic areas of the city. La Cusqueñita was a bit of a distance away, hidden in a semi unbusy street away from the main tourist spot. Once inside, the setting looked very homey. The decor was modest, with sculptures and artwork that paid homage to traditional Peruvian and Incan culture. 

The food was delicious. The first time I was able to see fried Cuy on the table, although I didn’t partake in it too much. I ate milanesa de pollo, which was a modest meal to try, and was very good. Alcoholic Chicha was also given, which was sweet and void of any alcoholic aftertaste. The table was filled with food, and the servers were quite nice. The food was very filling, and at a very affordable price. It was a great experience, and the Peruvian hospitality was very comforting. 

The dances were quite the spectacle. Every five to ten minutes, a song would begin to play as a group of dancers all took a stage at the front center of the room. They all wore elaborate costumes that complemented one another, performing dances that involved physical interaction and a sort of roughhousing play. All the dances had a unique context that fit into traditional Peruvian folklore, from devil-esque to puma masks and intricate dresses and suits that fit into the tone of each song. Masks were typical in many of the dances, with one of the dances having masks that seemed to resemble the masks at the Quyllurit'i ancestral festival that occurs annually in the region of Cusco. This festival is a typical demonstration of the syncretism of the Andean religion and Catholicism, a significant component of society and culture in the city of Cusco. If not mistaken, the masks in the ceremonial dances of the festival are intended to replicate the jungle Indians in Peru to enact ceremonially the connection between the highlands in Cusco, and the jungle lowlands where, it is believed, the ancient Inca ancestors now reside. The other dances were also very entertaining, with playful roughhousing including wrestling and the using of whips. I don’t know why they did that, but I'd like to know. One of the last dances involved some girl appearing seductive in a mask. she motioned for me to kiss her cheek - I don’t know why I listened. She turned at the last second, and I kissed the wooden mask on the lips. Pretty embarrassing. I guess that was part of the act.

Overall, a cool experience. The staff was very kind, and the atmosphere was super cordial. There were families eating all over the room, and it felt peaceful to eat among one another, occasionally sharing laughs and smiles at the ceremonial dances. It was an experience that I don’t think many other places can replicate, and I think that’s why the community continues to return to share a bit of their heritage and community with others. I’d like to know why the dances became such an integral part of the dining experience. Why did they choose to perform the ceremonial dances? Why were some so overtly playful and rough, albeit entertaining?