After three weeks in Cuzco, I was sad to leave but simultaneously excited because I love big cities, and I was more than ready to see what Lima had to offer. Although we've spent significantly less time in Lima than in Cuzco so far, I've noticed some substantial differences between the two cities—which makes sense given that one is the capital and one is a more of a colonial town. However, both have rich histories and so much to see. I'm not sure if I can pick a favorite—maybe at the end of this blog post I'll have figured it out—but for now, below are some differences that I've noticed between Lima and Cuzco in the last few days:
The Walking Experience
Walking around Lima is probably where I've noticed the most differences from Cuzco. While we meandered around the cobblestone streets of Cuzco and arrived at our destination usually within minutes, the sidewalks here are paved much like they are in the states, but it also takes a bit longer to get to places. In terms of crossing the street, I didn't think that it could get scarier than Cuzco because I'm not a huge fan of walking right into incoming traffic—people think that since I'm from Chicago I'm somehow immune to this, but I swear that our pedestrians and drivers are great about following road rules so crossing the road is just so much easier. However, Lima was a bit of a rude awakening—even at crosswalks with lights for both cars and pedestrians, people can be seen driving across the street even on a red light as long as there is no oncoming traffic and as long as the pedestrians are far enough away. Also, sometimes the most convenient way to get somewhere involves crossing busy intersections without traffic lights—this usually involves me short-distance sprinting across the street as I feel my body pulsing with stress. With the slightly-terrifying street crossing aside, however, the walking experience in Lima is also different because you don't have individuals on the street beckoning you to come into their restaurant or get the coveted "masaje." In that way, I've really appreciated Lima because I love walking around so much that having people bother me along every step of the walk by offering their respective services detracted a bit from that experience. Finally, what I've loved about walking in Lima is the view of the sea. It's been so long since I've seen a large body of water, as I haven't been to the beach in a while, so being able to look out at the sea in a slightly longer-than-average walk has been my favorite part of this visit to Lima so far. Also, the longer walks allow you to enjoy the city more and take the time to look around and soak it all—this got hard in Cuzco when places like Granja Heidi, for example, were only steps away.
The Dining Experience
Though there are a lot of similarities between the foods in Lima and Cuzco—which makes sense given that many of the places here feature traditional Peruvian cuisine, I feel like restaurants in Lima offer slightly more options outside of just traditional Peruvian dishes. For example, though Café San Antonio had empanadas and alfajores, it also had salads, sandwiches, and wraps which combined some more-Peruvian ingredients like quinoa in a vessel that I associate more closely with places like the United States. Another place we visited—Mercado 28—really had a lot of dishes that I felt were a less traditionally Peruvian. For instance, I ordered a poké bowl and felt like a bit of a traitor for not getting a more traditional meal from a smaller establishment, but at the same time, this place was packed, meaning that a lot of people were craving the same thing. This cafeteria-like café also featured a stir-fry place, tacos, and great ice cream. Even here, there is still that combination of traditional Peruvian dishes with those of other cultures—for instance, a lomo saltado stir fry or gelato made with lucuma. Another restaurant that we went to in the Larcomar called Popular continued with with this trend. They featured sushi with fresh-caught fish that combined Japanese and Peruvian flavors, a lomo saltado sandwich, and slightly more elevated chaufa dishes. I also thought it was funny that their menus featured two "popular" figures, according to them—Steve Jobs and Chewbacca—while their paper placemats focused on "popular" Peruvian dishes like ceviche and lomo saltado. Something else that I was surprised about here was that the prices weren't as high as I was expecting. With the exception of Popular, I've paid about the same price here for meals as I did in Cuzco. These meals also often had larger portion sizes, so it ends up being the same amount of money. I wonder why this is—I would expect that prices would have been notably higher here since it is a larger city, but I'm not complaining.
Overall, I've enjoyed the food both in Cuzco and Lima. In Cuzco, however, the food seems to be a bit more focused on delivering more traditional Peruvian cuisine or a fusion between mostly Peruvian cuisine and an international one, while in Lima the food has a bit more international flair without completely losing its Peruvian nature. I think this is often the case in larger cities, so I don't necessarily think that one is more or less authentic than the other or one is better than the other—they're simply as different as the two cities are.
The Living Experience
Life in Cuzco and Lima just seem pretty fundamentally different to me. Again, I think this is for the same reason that I've talked about above—that one is more of a colonial town rooted in the past while the other is a larger, capital city. Nevertheless, even though I expected to experience this contrast, I didn't realize just how noticeable it would be. For instance, despite the fact that there is most definitely traffic in parts of Cuzco, I felt like the traffic around our hotel slowed down later in the night, and it was easy to walk along the cobblestone streets and fall asleep to a relatively quiet night. In Lima, the rush of cars outside can be heard outside the window even in the later hours of the night and crossing busier intersections is even more difficult than in Cuzco. The buildings are mostly much taller and many have a more modern feel to them. Food delivery drivers bike through the streets with the brightly-colored bags of their respective delivery companies, and gas stations are seemingly on every corner. Looking back, I can't remember if I once saw a gas station while we were in Cuzco. Again, each city has its own appeal when it comes to the living experience, but as someone from a bigger city, the hustle and bustle in Lima had a certain appeal to it, and I found myself falling asleep easier with the sound of the rush of cars outside than with the quieter streets in Cuzco.
The Tourist Experience
This category is where I noticed one of the starkest contrasts between the two cities. In Cuzco, being a tourist can be a bit overwhelming because even during the shortest walk to the store or to grab a bite to eat you can get solicited by vendors, restaurant workers, and people offering masajes. Also, every other store (if not every store) seems to be targeted towards tourists and sells a variety of brightly-colored souvenirs. On the way into Lima, we discussed the fact that at any given time there are probably just as many tourists in Lima as there are in Cuzco, but since Lima is a bigger city, this number is far less noticeable, whereas in Cuzco most of the tourists are clustered in the same area. This is where I enjoyed Lima far more than Cuzco because we could enjoy walks to the beach or to the Larcomar without having to say "no, gracias" to a series of individuals on our way there. It also makes you feel a little bit less like a tourist and more like just another resident enjoying the city because you're not singled out by individuals on the street for looking "touristy." Something else that I've noticed in Lima that's been kind of interesting is that servers/store owners don't try to switch to English when they notice that you're not a native Spanish speaker like a decent amount of individuals did in Cuzco. I'm not sure what the reason is for this difference, as I expected that in a bigger city like Lima this switch to English would be more prevalent—maybe it's a result of the more concentrated Cuzco tourism I mentioned previously. When it comes to the tourist experience, I enjoyed Lima more than Cuzco because of the increased ability to join the hustle and bustle of everyday life rather than sticking in a crowd and consequently being solicited by a variety of offers on the street.
The Overall Experience
As I've been writing this reflection, I've realized just how difficult it is to compare Lima and Cuzco even though I thought it would be relatively simple when I set out to write it. Each city has its own experiences to offer and is great for its respective reasons. I loved Cuzco because I could almost feel the rich history of that particular region pulsing through the streets, because of the views of city lights up in the mountains while sitting at La Bo'M, and because of all of the new cultural experiences that I felt were unique to Cuzco and helped me continue moving out of my comfort zone. The reason I loved Lima kind of boils down to one main reason: it reminded me more of Chicago than I ever expected. On our last night in Lima, we walked down to the beach, and the view of cars driving down a busy highway against the backdrop of the sea reminded me so much of Lake Shore Drive that I almost felt like I was home for a second. I had many more moments like this in Lima—I almost felt like I was walking down Michigan Avenue when we went to get churros, and I was reminded of certain places in Chicago when we went to Larcomar. The ability to feel a little closer to home even when I was miles away in Lima was an unexpected experience but was what ultimately made our stay in Lima one of my favorite parts about our time in Peru.
Friday, May 31, 2019
Reflections on Miraflores, Lima
Like all cities,
Lima has several neighborhoods, each with a distinctive character.
The one that I stayed in during my trip to the city was Miraflores.
Several years ago, it was a plantation, but now it is a bustling,
trendy, and wealthy neighborhood. For me, it was a definitely
interesting contrast to the touristy city of Cusco as well.
The first thing I
noticed about Miraflores was that it wasn't densely concentrated as
Cusco and the prices were higher as well. To grab a meal here, you
have to walk at least ten minutes, which is very different compared
to Cusco, where there were several restaurants on the same street as
our hostel. I also felt that I had to walk more here to find a
restaurant compared to the Chinese cities I've lived, Beijing and
Shanghai. When you get to a restaurant, you have to pay about 50%
more for the same meal compared to Cusco. I would say that prices
here are almost comparable to American ones. This makes me wonder how
much you have to earn compared to the average Peruvian to afford
living here.
Another thing I
noticed about Miraflores is that Peruvians here are whiter than those
in Cusco. In Cusco, most light-skinned people I saw were visitors
from abroad, but there are plenty of light-skinned natives in this
neighborhood. I thought that perhaps Peruvians in Lima were whiter in
general than those in other cities. However, when I went to other
parts of the city, I didn't find that to be true. I would even guess
that the average skin color here is lighter than in many parts of
Miami.
Miraflores defies a
lot of stereotypes of Latin American cities. There aren't any
shantytowns or roving gangs here. Instead, the streets here are very
clean and neat, and I rarely would see any graffiti. Unlike Cusco,
there are plenty of trash cans available. Overall, I would say that
this neighborhood is more comparable to a European city such as Munich
than a Latin American city like Santiago, Chile.
There are plenty of
upscale restaurants here with a wide option of cuisines to choose
from. There's Mexican, sushi, burgers. Compared to Cusco, it seems a
little harder to find traditional Peruvian food and I did not find
any restaurants that offered a daily set menu. I thought this was a
bit strange because I saw plenty of such menus in Santiago.
At the seaside
Larcomar mall, you can frequent many typical chain stores that are
common in America. For example, I saw stores for Adidas, Nike, and
North Face. I even saw a Chili's and a TGI Fridays. However, in a
Peruvian twist, you can also find stores that specialize in authentic
Alpaca wool products. Overall, I would say that the mall is very
similar to the Green Hills Mall in Nashville. While the mall was very
beautiful, I did not find it so interesting because I can go to the
Green Hills Mall any time.
The main thing I
didn't like about Miraflores was that I felt it wasn't representative
of the rest of the city. It felt very similar to things I could find
back in Nashville, which was disappointing for me as a tourist
looking for a different cultural experience. I think I would have
gotten an experience more representative of Lima if I had stayed in a
different neighborhood. On the other hand, this makes me want to
return to Lima in the future to experience more of the city.
I wonder what in the
history of Miraflores has made the neighborhood so affluent and white
compared to the rest of Lima. I also wonder if there is any
connection between the amount of white Peruvians here and the
neighborhood's affluence. Staying in Miraflores definitely made me
think more about the importance of race in Peru.
The Massage Experience in Cusco
While going down
many streets in Cusco, you will see women constantly calling out to
you with cries of, “Massage, massage.” I am not sure how a
massage industry got to be so prevalent in Cusco, but you will
definitely notice it when you are there.
Since the masseuses
advertise rock bottom prices of 20 or 30 soles for an hour (about $7
to $10), I got very curious over time to see how a massage from one
of these places would play out. It seemed too good to be true,
considering that a massage is several times more expensive in the US.
But since it was so cheap, I figure it wouldn't hurt to try.
My first attempt to
get a massage was going on the street at 9:30 PM, looking for one of
the omnipresent street hawkers. I read online that theft was a
possibility at massage parlors, so as a precaution, I only bought my
clothes and the amount of money necessary for a massage.
However, I had no
luck. It seemed a little strange to me how the places closed so
early, considering most restaurants and mini-markets were still open.
It turns out if you want a massage, it's better to start looking
before 8 PM.
The next day, I
started looking around 6 and quickly found a woman who was
advertising massages less than five minutes away from my hotel. She
was offering a massage for 30 soles for an hour, which I accepted.
I hadn't had a lot
of experience getting massages in the US before, but the experience
seemed rather typical. I had to take my clothes off and lay on a
massage table. A female masseuse bought over a white noise fan and
began the massage. In the background played relaxing music. I
recognized one of the songs being the Sanskrit song “Om padme mani
hum” which many people like to meditate to. Overall, I felt like I
was in a safe environment where I could relax.
The next day, I
sought a hot stone massage, which was slightly more expensive at 50
soles or $14. This massage involved extensive use of coca-infused
cream, which is described on Esquire Magazine's website as being good
for one's skin. The hot stones were then used to warm the cream.
Both times while I
got a massage, I was the only customer. I'm not sure if it was the
time, or if the massage parlors were generally not very popular.
Even though the
massage trade in Cusco seems to have a shady reputation associated
with the sex industry, I never felt unsafe either time I got a
massage. I felt both times my masseuse was professional. However,
since you will be separated from your belongings during the massage,
I do think it is a good idea to not bring anything more than money.
I think got a good
deal for my money on both occasions. However, I could see someone who
is more of a massage connoisseur than me feel like they got a subpar
massage. Still, I would recommend getting a massage to anyone who is
interested in getting a massage for a good price. Just make sure to
start looking before 8 PM and you're good.
Traffic Jam
As the time came to a close in Cusco, I was ready to return to an altitude in which I could go up a flight of stairs without gasping for air as if I had just climbed 10 flights. I figured that in our trip to Lima, we would have a bit more space- wider sidewalks and roads, more spread out hotels, more space in between one car and the next. I remember even noticing a spacious baggage claim area. However, my previous thoughts were shattered when we began our van ride to the hotel that we would be staying at in Miraflores. Hundreds of cars honked their horns as they disregarded any lane markings, swerving and sliding across the roads. The roads may have gotten way bigger, but I soon learned that just means more cars will fill in the space, to the point of traffic jams in intersections as I write this.
Having now been the passenger on quite a few rides through Lima and the surrounding areas, I can confidently say that each time I sat in the car, I almost felt as if I was white knuckle gripping the steering wheel myself. However, I wasn’t, and, to my surprise, the drivers weren’t either. They sat in their seats, relaxed and occasionally glancing in mirrors before sweeping lanes, and passing inches from the next car’s side. One even managed to FaceTime, shift gears, and talk to us as he drove without missing a beat or seeming the slightest bit nervous. Repeated horn sounds are as mundane as can be here, and are even helpful to the drivers, yet each horn had me looking every which way to see if we were soon going to be involved in a large collision. What else struck me as odd, is that despite having stoplights, I didn’t seem to notice any stop signs on many of the Lima roads, forcing drivers to butt their way into the intersections, with more honking and zero slowing down for pedestrians or other vehicles, motorized bikes included. Dogs jog down the sides of roads and jump in between cars, and they themselves seem to be plenty fine with the overall “closeness” and much smaller personal space bubbles that seem to exist when it comes to travel.
What first seemed to me to just be a whole lot of crazy drivers soon came to make sense to me, being that it’s just what people are used to in Lima. During my first ride, I was shocked that there were no accidents, and expected them to happen at any second, and expected enraged and much different drivers. As time went on, I was able to see that the close calls and honking horns are simply integral to their driving experience, and aren’t signs of imminent danger as I would perceive them to be.
Thursday, May 30, 2019
College Road Trip
In the United States, my
family’s road trips usually consist numerous Chickfila stops, bathroom breaks
at Exxon gas stations, and late-night check ins at Holiday Inns. On the way
from Lima to the south, our road trip ran a little differently. In Peru, the classic
breakfast on-the-road consists of ginormous cups of coffee and pan al horno
(freshly baked bread) filled with cheese and olives. The cheese filled bread was
yummy, but you must really like olives to be able to be able finish the olive
bread (@crosby). The highways in Peru were slightly different from ones like I95.
For one, the toll prices were extremely pricier. The average toll price for a small
vehicle was approximately 10 USD. Another fun little surprise was the
incorporation of speed bumps onto the highway. I was pretty confused when our
van jerked to a stop, crossed a speed bump, and then roughly sped up to highway
speeds; however, after about the 15th highway speed-bump, the decreases
and increases in velocity blended in with other jolts from potholes, gear
shifts, and lane changes. In most of the U.S. interstates, long, flat stretches
of road are bordered by tree lines, speckled by highway signs and tall buildings.
On the Peruvian highway, the road was parallel to the earth (there were no side
ditches). There were no mile-markers, no fast-food, no gas-station signs. However,
the scenery from Lima to the south was breathtaking. To one side of me, ocean waves
crashed onto the shore. To the other side of me, sand dunes rose high in the
air like mountains. The dichotomous terrain of ocean and desert side-by-side was
unlike anything I had seen before.
There was a general lack of chain restaurants and hotels, a theme persistent across all of the Maymester road trips. This drew away from the consistency and comfort that can sometimes envelop road trips in the US and added an element of surprise and anticipation. On the way back from Peru, we stopped at a gas-station
restaurant for lunch. They had a really good selection of food; honestly it was
probably some of the best gas-station food I’ve ever had, and it was by far the
fastest service I have ever had during my time in Peru. I ordered some pretty
decent Tequeños and a nice little alfajor. Overall, I do not think I can say that I like one way of traveling over another (in the US versus in Peru), only that they are different. Each country offers its own comforts and its own qwirks for travelers; the ability to notice and appreciate these differences is an ingredient to a memorable and valuable road trip.
Ollyantaytamborracho
During our night at Ollantaytambo,
a few of us decided to go out for drinks while the rest of the group was
watching the finale of Game of Thrones. We went out to eat at a restaurant and
ordered Pisco Sours with our meals. However, there was a whole lot more Pisco
than there was sour; everyone’s drinks were so strong. We paid the check, and as
we walked out of the restaurant, a little black dog crawled out underneath the
table where it had been sitting. I bent down to pet him but in doing so, caught
a whiff of what this cute little dog smelt like. Now, feel like I have smelt my
fair share of bad-smelling dogs, but this little fluffer was an expectation—his
smell was completely unbearable. We turned away, quickly walked over to the
main square, and decided to go into an English pub. We ordered our drinks, sat
down, and began to talk. All of the sudden, there emerged a moldy-garbage-like
smell. Our noses led us to the source of the smell...the same small black dog from
the first restaurant; he and his horrible stench had followed us all the way to
our table at the second bar. We yelled and nudged and offered food, but the dog
would not budge from his spot under our table. Finally, we called a waiter over;
he pulled the dog out from under the table and ushered him outside. Shortly
after, he brought over our drinks. I took a sip and almost spit it right back
up, my Chilcano tasted as if was just a glass of alcohol. I looked around and
my friends all seemed to be having the same experiences with their drinks. We were
confused and discussing how both places had made such strong drinks when all of
the lights in the bar turned off and the room fell silent. It turns out the bar
we had chosen was airing the season finale of GOT on their T.V. and everyone in
the bar was very, very invested in this T.V. series. As the bar did not appreciate
our noise and laughter during the T.V show, and we did not appreciate the
rubbing alcohol the bar had served us, we chose to set out in search of another
place to pass the night. We crossed the main square and stopped in front of a
cluster of restaurants. We squinted, trying to make out which one offered the best
prices. As we tried to choose which one to enter, waiters from the three
different restaurants all ran outside to the edge of the sidewalk. They all
started to yell, tried to coax us into their own respective restaurants. We
stood there for a moment, bewildered as what was playing out before our eyes,
and then all burst into laughter. The waiters started to laugh too but did not
stop trying to offer us the best ofertas y precios. Slowly, we ended up shuffling
into the middle restaurant and sat down. We all ordered Chilcano maracuyas and quickly
after the waitress walked away, smelled that same sour, dirty-sock smell, the dog
was back. Unable to handle the smell that was permeating the air, we nudged him
with our feet onto the outside balcony and shut the door. I felt rather bad, but
not that bad as my nose was finally at peace. Our drinks came out, once again extremely
strong, but more drinkable than they had been at the other places. All in all,
my advice for Ollantaytambo would be: proceed with caution when ordering
drinks (Ollantaytambo doesn’t mess around) and stay away from the small, black
dogs.
Turismo en Aguas Calientes
I had a very conflicting experience during my time in Aguas Calientes. Upon our arrival there, I was amazed by how beautiful the town was and the hustle and bustle that I have consistently found to be the case in larger cities. The lights, statues, and architecture all drew me to what makes Aguas Calientes so unique. However, it was the rushing river that coursed throughout the town that made me think that it was love at first sight with this city.
On the other hand, the more time I spent there, the more I realized that this city was a tourist trap. Before getting there, I was made aware of the fact that they made a whole city in recent years in order to cater to those visiting Machu Picchu, but I did not realize to what extent. As I began to notice the little details that made the city seem less and less genuine, I began to lose affection for what I thought was love at first sight. For example, the first restaurant that we planned on eating at had prices that were so unreasonably high that we all decided to leave in what felt like an act of solidarity. I know that part of the reason for the inflated prices is that most of their products are imported by train, thus naturally increasing the cost of production; nevertheless, that didn’t stop me from being outraged by the minimum of 47 soles that I would have had to spend on dinner there.
All that glittered was not gold with this town, and after being there for less than 24 hours, it somewhat felt like being told that Santa Claus isn’t real for the first time. Once you start to see what is actually happening behind the scenes, it doesn’t feel as special anymore. However, I was able to somewhat accept Aguas Calientes for what it was and enjoy it as much as I could. The availability and locations of restaurants and tiendas were very convenient, and I definitely commend Aguas Calientes for that. One thing that I appreciated more than anything was the lack of soliciting compared to Cuzco; however, I do think that the lack of soliciting translates to the higher prices of everything else here in order to keep the city’s tourist-based economy thriving in a way that only rivals the capital of the Incas.
On the other hand, the more time I spent there, the more I realized that this city was a tourist trap. Before getting there, I was made aware of the fact that they made a whole city in recent years in order to cater to those visiting Machu Picchu, but I did not realize to what extent. As I began to notice the little details that made the city seem less and less genuine, I began to lose affection for what I thought was love at first sight. For example, the first restaurant that we planned on eating at had prices that were so unreasonably high that we all decided to leave in what felt like an act of solidarity. I know that part of the reason for the inflated prices is that most of their products are imported by train, thus naturally increasing the cost of production; nevertheless, that didn’t stop me from being outraged by the minimum of 47 soles that I would have had to spend on dinner there.
All that glittered was not gold with this town, and after being there for less than 24 hours, it somewhat felt like being told that Santa Claus isn’t real for the first time. Once you start to see what is actually happening behind the scenes, it doesn’t feel as special anymore. However, I was able to somewhat accept Aguas Calientes for what it was and enjoy it as much as I could. The availability and locations of restaurants and tiendas were very convenient, and I definitely commend Aguas Calientes for that. One thing that I appreciated more than anything was the lack of soliciting compared to Cuzco; however, I do think that the lack of soliciting translates to the higher prices of everything else here in order to keep the city’s tourist-based economy thriving in a way that only rivals the capital of the Incas.
Monday, May 27, 2019
Driving in Lima
To be clear, this post is most definitely not about me driving in Lima, but about my observations of the drivers in Lima as well as the interesting "culture" that there seems to be while on the road in Peru. Personally, I think that I am a generally safe and good driver when I am home in NJ, but the drivers here are VERY different, and I couldn't even picture myself driving an automatic vehicle on these streets, which is crazy as most of the drivers here use manual vehicles that are usually 3 times the size of my car.
Throughout this trip we have had a few drivers, and Zoe and I had the fun experience of taking a few Ubers, which allowed us to more fully see how native Peruvian people drive in this city. It seems as if there is an utter lack of rules when driving here, as no one uses their turn signals, traffic signals such as red/green lights seem to be merely a suggestion, and pedestrian crosswalks are also rarely respected. However, to my surprise I have not seen a single accident while here, while in NJ I usually pass one a day just driving around Princeton. Zoe and I discussed this, and came to the conclusion that the difference in accident rates here and in the US is probably due to the fact that Americans are always doing something else while driving such as texting or drinking coffee or even applying makeup, while in Peru people drive manual cars so their full attention is on driving, which leads to less accidents.
Another topic related to differences in driving culture here is the behavior of taxis. While walking back from dinner taxis will actively approach you, honking their horns and flashing their lights, attempting to convince you that you need a ride home. This is super different from New York, where you basically have to jump into the street to get a taxi driver's attention. I believe that this difference is due to a difference in demand, as in NY driver know that there will always be someone who needs a ride, while here in Lima in seems that most people prefer to walk or take their own cars.
Overall, my experiences with vehicles in Lima have shown me the difference between driving in Peru and in the states, and while I will miss most things about life here in Peru, I definitely will not miss the stress of being on the roads, even as a passenger.
Throughout this trip we have had a few drivers, and Zoe and I had the fun experience of taking a few Ubers, which allowed us to more fully see how native Peruvian people drive in this city. It seems as if there is an utter lack of rules when driving here, as no one uses their turn signals, traffic signals such as red/green lights seem to be merely a suggestion, and pedestrian crosswalks are also rarely respected. However, to my surprise I have not seen a single accident while here, while in NJ I usually pass one a day just driving around Princeton. Zoe and I discussed this, and came to the conclusion that the difference in accident rates here and in the US is probably due to the fact that Americans are always doing something else while driving such as texting or drinking coffee or even applying makeup, while in Peru people drive manual cars so their full attention is on driving, which leads to less accidents.
Another topic related to differences in driving culture here is the behavior of taxis. While walking back from dinner taxis will actively approach you, honking their horns and flashing their lights, attempting to convince you that you need a ride home. This is super different from New York, where you basically have to jump into the street to get a taxi driver's attention. I believe that this difference is due to a difference in demand, as in NY driver know that there will always be someone who needs a ride, while here in Lima in seems that most people prefer to walk or take their own cars.
Overall, my experiences with vehicles in Lima have shown me the difference between driving in Peru and in the states, and while I will miss most things about life here in Peru, I definitely will not miss the stress of being on the roads, even as a passenger.
Clothing and Identity in Cuzco
It was interesting to notice the clothing trends among locals in Cuzco. Whenever I saw more traditional clothing, it was often the women that were wearing it. Even then, it tended to be older women; for example, the women that were offering pictures with llamas had been walking around in what seemed to be traditional wear. On the other hand, I have seen men overwhelmingly wearing clothes that are usually associated with more Western styles. Seeing this reminds me of one of our discussions in class about the value of women in Peruvian society. They carry the responsibility of preserving Peruvian culture as they are considered to be the ones that should teach the following generations about what makes up an important part of their identity.
In a way, it feels as though they capitalize on this so that they can give off the sense that what they are selling is an authentic reflection of the culture. The irony is that wearing streetwear has actually become a part of Peruvian culture. Something funny I witnessed was when I saw a woman wearing a poncho that looked like it had traditional patterns and designs, I also noticed that she was wearing Adidas leggings underneath the poncho. More than anything, this represents how modern streetwear is a more accurate representation of the average woman who is not trying to sell anything to tourists.
On the other hand, I noticed that in the restaurants that cater to tourists, the wait staff were more likely to dress in business casual outfits. It might be because they want the customers to think that the restaurant gives off the impression of being a higher end restaurant. For instance, servers at a cafe like La Valeriana make the experience fancier by doing so while baristas at my local Starbucks wear black shirts, jeans, and green aprons. However, this could also be a manifestation of the fact that those who work in the food industry work in a less casual atmosphere than in the United States. This could be why the servers here appear to have a stricter dress code while at work. Regardless of what people’s clothing says about Cuzco, it has been fascinating to see how formative tourism has been in the development of the city’s ever-changing culture.
In a way, it feels as though they capitalize on this so that they can give off the sense that what they are selling is an authentic reflection of the culture. The irony is that wearing streetwear has actually become a part of Peruvian culture. Something funny I witnessed was when I saw a woman wearing a poncho that looked like it had traditional patterns and designs, I also noticed that she was wearing Adidas leggings underneath the poncho. More than anything, this represents how modern streetwear is a more accurate representation of the average woman who is not trying to sell anything to tourists.
On the other hand, I noticed that in the restaurants that cater to tourists, the wait staff were more likely to dress in business casual outfits. It might be because they want the customers to think that the restaurant gives off the impression of being a higher end restaurant. For instance, servers at a cafe like La Valeriana make the experience fancier by doing so while baristas at my local Starbucks wear black shirts, jeans, and green aprons. However, this could also be a manifestation of the fact that those who work in the food industry work in a less casual atmosphere than in the United States. This could be why the servers here appear to have a stricter dress code while at work. Regardless of what people’s clothing says about Cuzco, it has been fascinating to see how formative tourism has been in the development of the city’s ever-changing culture.
Basílica y convento de San Francisco de Lima: An ode to bones
As we walk down the streets of
Lima, I am struck by how modern this city appears compared to Cusco. Buildings are much taller, there are spacious
sidewalks for pedestrians, and there is even a small mall we pass through. Part of our intended path is blocked by
fences and security guards due to the presence of foreign Presidents a few
blocks down. To me, this all shows Lima
as a modern, important seat of political power.
Yet when we enter the Basilica, I am immediately reminded of the rich
history of the city.
One
of the first rooms we visit in this building is the library. My first impression of the room is the musty
smell of old books. Looking around, I
see shelves that are full of ancient texts, which our guide says are fragile to
the point of pages crumbling when touched.
There are several windows in the ceiling which were built to let in
natural light for reading long before the days of electricity. After contemplating the hundreds of people
who must have studied in here over the years, we move on to the area where
worship occurred. The seats are carved
with great detail, including pregnant women to symbolize the virgin Mary and
Amazonian women to symbolize the exoticness of Peruvian culture, as seen by the
Spaniards. This mix of decoration shows
the interaction of ancient local and colonial cultures.
Despite
the beauty of the church, the real intrigue began as we entered the catacombs
below. In the small, earthy corridors,
there were hundreds of bones.
Archaeologists had removed the original stacks and sorted them according
to bone type. Thus, there was a pit of
femurs, another for pelvises, and so on with each part of the skeleton. Interestingly, archaeologists had taken the
time to organize these bones into patterns, with long bones forming an arrowlike
pattern in the pits, or radiating out from skulls in the center of a well-like
formation. Seeing the hundreds of bones
which once belonged to members of the church was a truly humbling
experience. Indeed, I was disappointed
to see cases where tourists throwing coins into the pits had damaged some of
the bones below. Another interesting
experience in the catacombs was looking up through a grate which led directly
into the main part of the church, somewhere we had been minutes earlier. The close proximity of the dead to the center
of worship showed how important this burial site was to the former
churchgoers.
On
the way out of the basilica, the tour guide pointed out another interesting
detail. Above one of the original walls
stood a fence which added an additional 10 feet or so of height. Apparently, monks who work at the church now
enjoy an occasional sports match in addition to their religious duties! Thus, adding a fence around the courtyard
protects the building from stray balls.
To me, this alteration showed that while still respecting ancient
culture, current occupants of this old building continue to blend our
cultures. This seems like an appropriate
representation of Lima as a whole; new and old cultures mixing without one
completely overshadowing the other.
Thou Shall Not: Sacrality in Machu Picchu
As I walked through the gates that led to Machu Picchu, I glanced at the signs on the walls that listed the activities that guests were forbade to participate in while exploring the ancient lands. The list included things like no eating, no stripping, no use of aerosol cans, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. I didn't think I– or anyone– would have any issues with the rules, but I was very wrong. Apparently, the list of things to not do was incomplete. I learned this the hard way.
After we hiked to the top of the mountain and back down, I and a few of my classmates were sitting on the grass relaxing. I had a tumbling video due for the cheer team, and since I was in one of the only places where there was even grass since being in Peru, I decided that would be a good time to record a quick back handspring. I took off my shoes, did my flip, and was done in literally 4 seconds. But as I went to sit back down, an angry looking guard started walking towards me and asked if I spoke Spanish. I proudly, and reluctantly, said yes– and proceeded to get lectured on why my actions were inappropriate. This was "tierra sagrada" and not a "parque de ejercicio" after all. And then, since the "cameras had seen me", it was imperative that I deleted the video. He was clearly upset that I did not respect the sacred grounds and the incans who came before me. I didn't think my actions were particularly disruptive, but I tried to appease him and pretended to delete the video.
This got me thinking, why was hiking to la puerta del sol an okay expenditure of energy but my back handspring– which took significantly less effort on my part– too un-sacred? The man said nothing of safety, which in my opinion would have been a stronger argument, and instead focused on how the lands were basically holy. If that's the case, shouldn't our vanity-induced selfies also be forbidden? Was the forced labor of those who actually built the ruins considered sacred work, as well?
These are just some things I pondered after being chastised. But they did not damper my overall wonderful experience of Machu Picchu.
After we hiked to the top of the mountain and back down, I and a few of my classmates were sitting on the grass relaxing. I had a tumbling video due for the cheer team, and since I was in one of the only places where there was even grass since being in Peru, I decided that would be a good time to record a quick back handspring. I took off my shoes, did my flip, and was done in literally 4 seconds. But as I went to sit back down, an angry looking guard started walking towards me and asked if I spoke Spanish. I proudly, and reluctantly, said yes– and proceeded to get lectured on why my actions were inappropriate. This was "tierra sagrada" and not a "parque de ejercicio" after all. And then, since the "cameras had seen me", it was imperative that I deleted the video. He was clearly upset that I did not respect the sacred grounds and the incans who came before me. I didn't think my actions were particularly disruptive, but I tried to appease him and pretended to delete the video.
This got me thinking, why was hiking to la puerta del sol an okay expenditure of energy but my back handspring– which took significantly less effort on my part– too un-sacred? The man said nothing of safety, which in my opinion would have been a stronger argument, and instead focused on how the lands were basically holy. If that's the case, shouldn't our vanity-induced selfies also be forbidden? Was the forced labor of those who actually built the ruins considered sacred work, as well?
These are just some things I pondered after being chastised. But they did not damper my overall wonderful experience of Machu Picchu.
Walking around Lima
When we first got to Lima, I was super excited to explore the city. As soon as we got there, we were all starving and immediately rushed to get empanadas. Being tired from the flight, everyone wanted to take a nap shortly after lunch; however, I decided to work on the second paper while I still had the energy. Me and a few others walked across the street from San Antonio to a cafe called La Baguette. Despite the French name, the menu did not include French cuisine. We collectively worked on our essays for around two hours and then I decided to head back to the hostel to take a nap.
As I was walking back to the hostel, I felt a new, sudden urge of energy. I immediately turned around and started walking back to La baguette, but then I wondered, "Why don't I go on a walk and explore the city by myself?" I believe walking around a city alone is one of the best ways to get to know it. The most interesting part is walking by everything and having no idea what it is, but later on throughout your trip (once you start becoming adjusted to the town) you start to realize how you have walked by some of those restaurants before. The feeling of familiarity is comforting to me, and allows me to feel as though I have a relationship with the city I am in. Overall, I appreciate the increased access to sidewalks in Lima, and its gorgeous views of the coastline. Walking around staring at the ocean is way better than twisting my ankle on cobblestones!
As I was walking back to the hostel, I felt a new, sudden urge of energy. I immediately turned around and started walking back to La baguette, but then I wondered, "Why don't I go on a walk and explore the city by myself?" I believe walking around a city alone is one of the best ways to get to know it. The most interesting part is walking by everything and having no idea what it is, but later on throughout your trip (once you start becoming adjusted to the town) you start to realize how you have walked by some of those restaurants before. The feeling of familiarity is comforting to me, and allows me to feel as though I have a relationship with the city I am in. Overall, I appreciate the increased access to sidewalks in Lima, and its gorgeous views of the coastline. Walking around staring at the ocean is way better than twisting my ankle on cobblestones!
An experience with Peruvian healthcare
My misgivings first arose when Professor Falconí informed me that there was an ambulance coming for me. Since I had gotten quite sick that morning, I had become increasingly nervous about traveling to Lima the following day. That afternoon, I had decided that I wanted to see a doctor before braving air travel. Little did I know, however, that there is quite a scarcity of available medical professionals on Friday nights in Cusco. Professor Falconí informed me that the only clinic that would be able to see me was sending an ambulance for me. This felt wholly unnecessary, as I felt fully able-bodied enough to walk. As I wanted to see a doctor, however, the ambulance came. Soon enough, I was greeted by a doctor and nurse in the lobby of our hostel. To my surprise, the preliminary examination took place right there in the lobby. Another surprising feature was their use of cell phones during the visit. For example, the doctor used the flashlight feature on her iPhone to look at my throat. I didn't realize until that moment that I don't think I've ever seen my primary care doctor in the States use her phone during one of my appointments.
After the preliminary examination, I walked down the block to the ambulance. Thus began one of the most harrowing car rides of my life. Driving in Cusco provides plenty of excitement, but it was furthered by sirens, the jerky manual transmission, and the fact that the driver was weaving in and out of different lanes the whole time. Once we arrived at the clinic, the nausea that had been dull before leaving the hostel had become strong and uncomfortable. A clinic worker helped me into a wheelchair and brought me to my room.
The room was dimly lit, but it had a single horizontal strip of color tracing around the room. I think the pattern was meant to evoke some sort of association with the Inca aesthetic, but I wasn't sure. After being helped into my bed, a nurse administered an IV and took my blood for testing. Before leaving, she assured us that it shouldn't take longer than three hours, and that she would try and encourage them to process it even faster. Three and a half hours later, the nurse came back to prepare me for another test. Another thirty minutes, she assured me, and the doctor will come to your room with all of the results. Two hours later, after calling the nurse multiple times, the doctor finally came back to inform me that all of the tests were negative and that it was likely something viral. I could be discharged and go home.
By the time I was discharged, I had been at the clinic for about six hours. I had become acquainted with the concept of "Peruvian time" through my experience with Peruvian restaurants, but it took on greater gravity in the context of their medical system. I was also struck by the gender disparity that I noticed--all of the doctors and nurses who worked with me were female, while all of the administrative workers and drivers I interacted with were male. In the United States, I generally notice a split between doctors and nurses, so I thought it was interesting that, in Perú, the split was between administrators and practitioners. All in all, while I wouldn't necessarily like to repeat my visit to a Peruvian clinic, I felt that my experience gave me insight into the workings of the Peruvian healthcare system.
After the preliminary examination, I walked down the block to the ambulance. Thus began one of the most harrowing car rides of my life. Driving in Cusco provides plenty of excitement, but it was furthered by sirens, the jerky manual transmission, and the fact that the driver was weaving in and out of different lanes the whole time. Once we arrived at the clinic, the nausea that had been dull before leaving the hostel had become strong and uncomfortable. A clinic worker helped me into a wheelchair and brought me to my room.
The room was dimly lit, but it had a single horizontal strip of color tracing around the room. I think the pattern was meant to evoke some sort of association with the Inca aesthetic, but I wasn't sure. After being helped into my bed, a nurse administered an IV and took my blood for testing. Before leaving, she assured us that it shouldn't take longer than three hours, and that she would try and encourage them to process it even faster. Three and a half hours later, the nurse came back to prepare me for another test. Another thirty minutes, she assured me, and the doctor will come to your room with all of the results. Two hours later, after calling the nurse multiple times, the doctor finally came back to inform me that all of the tests were negative and that it was likely something viral. I could be discharged and go home.
By the time I was discharged, I had been at the clinic for about six hours. I had become acquainted with the concept of "Peruvian time" through my experience with Peruvian restaurants, but it took on greater gravity in the context of their medical system. I was also struck by the gender disparity that I noticed--all of the doctors and nurses who worked with me were female, while all of the administrative workers and drivers I interacted with were male. In the United States, I generally notice a split between doctors and nurses, so I thought it was interesting that, in Perú, the split was between administrators and practitioners. All in all, while I wouldn't necessarily like to repeat my visit to a Peruvian clinic, I felt that my experience gave me insight into the workings of the Peruvian healthcare system.
¿Aguas Calientes o Niagara Falls?
Upon arrival to Aguas Calientes, the village of Machu Picchu, I woke up on the PERURAIL train to what seemed like a town constructed rapidly and haphazardly in the middle of a jungle town, where a town simply should not be. Professor Falconi had mentioned before that the town almost seemed similar to that of Tijuana, a border town. As I got off the train, I realized the main line into the town was the rail system, and that its remote location along the Inca Trail was the sole reason for existence. What should have been a backdrop of pure nature, jungle and a stream, was polluted by the horn of a train and human garbage along the stream. Hoards of Peruvian men clad in neon green from head to toe lugged the tents and sleeping bags of hikers, a porter union that is an essential component to the Inca Trail hike, done seemingly by only foreigners.
As I made my way down the narrow main stretch, every door offered a place to stay, a meal, or served as a convenience store, advertising themselves to none other than tourists. Neon signs advertised bug spray and selfie sticks, the ultimate sign of a tourist. The bricks along the railroad and up into the plaza were spotless and intact, given that they are newly constructed, as an expansion due to the influx of visitors and the boom in tourism in the Andes. As the day progressed, I looked out of the balcony of my hotel room, with sheet metal and bricks obstructing my view of a pure, green valley. Dogs barked, music played, and tourists clamored out. Not long after, we went to a restaurant, which may or may not have had the highest prices I had seen in my entire time in Peru, despite the food being nothing special. At once, the entire group left the restaurant in search of other mediocre options in the tourist trap that is the town of Aguas Calientes, which closely parallels the town around Niagara Falls. The town there is nothing but a haphazardly thrown together trap, charging passersby for everything imaginable. Neon signs advertise tours and rain jackets, and one must pass through store after store to even get somewhat near the Falls themselves. One can’t make their way towards the true nature without being accosted, people trying to sell them souvenirs, food, and any other item that they think a tourist may bite at. Laying in my bed that night, I was only able to think of my trip to Niagara Falls, with its abundance of selfie sticks and travel guides being offered. It only continued to show the commercialization of nature in our world, as businesses spring up haphazardly in attempts to gain the economic benefit of tourism, only to the cultural detriment of the surrounding areas.
Intense Incense
A bead of sweat drips down my head, falling onto my foot. I am in agony. We’re 45 minutes in to an hour long torture session paid for by my academic institution.
I’ve never done yoga before, but about a week ago, I tried it for the first time. Thinking it would be a kind
of weird, yet relaxing experience, I actually looked forward to it. My joints shudder at how wrong I was.
of weird, yet relaxing experience, I actually looked forward to it. My joints shudder at how wrong I was.
I fall down for the 5th time of this stretch, which has me balancing on one leg and sticking the other one out in an awkward manner. I feel what I imagine to be my spinal fusion trying to burst out of my lower back. Every one “oms.” I’m weirded out.
I remember even joking about becoming a yogi before even trying it. Anticipation built as we walked up
the stairs to start the session. After talking to the yoga lady, every took off their shoes and socks
(except for me and Crosby, who opted to keep our socks on), and prepared to begin the session.
the stairs to start the session. After talking to the yoga lady, every took off their shoes and socks
(except for me and Crosby, who opted to keep our socks on), and prepared to begin the session.
Someone passes gas, I try my hardest and fail trying not to laugh. A couple of minutes later, bent over trying to stick my other leg up into the air, my joints are crying for mercy. I pray for the end.
The lady began the session by talking to us for a bit about chakra or something funky like that. I
remember she had the fattest lip of coca in I’d ever seen. She then told us to lay down on the matts.
Just as Catie had gotten comfortable on hers with her eyes closed, I watched a woman walk in, stand
over her, and drop her entire bag on Catie’s head. It was a highlight of the session.
remember she had the fattest lip of coca in I’d ever seen. She then told us to lay down on the matts.
Just as Catie had gotten comfortable on hers with her eyes closed, I watched a woman walk in, stand
over her, and drop her entire bag on Catie’s head. It was a highlight of the session.
The instructor turn off the lights for a few minutes for what I presume to be nap time. She then turns the lights back on. We’re done. With glee I run into the storage room, grab my shoes, and make my way to the exit. Barely still alive, I limp back to the hotel/hostel.
Ultimately, I’m glad I partook in the experience. It’s for sure not my thing though. I was pretty sore
afterwards for around two days, especially in my shoulders. I think that my inflexibility and incompetence
deeply upset the pregnant woman beside me, who had brought her own incense and tea. The
soon-to-be mother also did the hardest variation of every single stretch. I likely won’t try yoga again, but
in the future I will have a newfound respect for those who do.
afterwards for around two days, especially in my shoulders. I think that my inflexibility and incompetence
deeply upset the pregnant woman beside me, who had brought her own incense and tea. The
soon-to-be mother also did the hardest variation of every single stretch. I likely won’t try yoga again, but
in the future I will have a newfound respect for those who do.
Activism in Peru
In several of the cities we have visited, we have witnessed locals voicing
their opinions on topics they care passionately about. This has often taken the form of individuals
sharing their personal ideals, but on a few occasions, we have witnessed large
scale protests. The smaller examples of
activism seem to mostly concern preservation of the rich Incan architecture. For example, on nearly every walk down the
streets of Cusco, you can see individuals holding signs reminding tourists not
to touch the stone walls. Although apparently
not paid to enforce this rule, it seems that the locals have so much pride in
the work of their ancestors that they spend hours a day drawing attention to
its preservation. Another example of
individual activism in Lima was a man who had a large poster attached to his
bike promoting veganism. This sign was
clearly handmade, and more than likely impeded his ability to maneuver his bike. Regardless, he was passionate enough about
promoting veganism that these inconveniences did not stop him. These examples show that many Peruvians feel
empowered enough to speak up about issues that bother them.
We have also seen people
work collectively to have their voice heard.
The first large scale protest we witnessed was in Ollantaytambo. Despite the relatively small size of the
town, the crowd that gathered to march was large enough to occupy nearly two
blocks worth of road. This group was
very well organized, carrying banners that spanned the width of the street and
shouting chants in unison. At first glance,
I admired the unity of these locals; however, on closer inspection, I realized
that the purpose of the protest was very vague.
For example, many of the signs condemned governmental corruption,
something that everyone can agree with.
In fact, I was unable to determine the specific purpose of this march until
I heard some guards at the ruins of Ollantaytambo describe the locals’ anger
over agricultural issues. Overall, the
way in which locals conducted this protest made it seem as if their real goal
was to get the government officials’ attention, rather than bring awareness to
the issue itself.
In contrast, the large
protest which occurred in Cusco had a very specific purpose. In this case, locals had bright pink and blue
signs with phrases criticizing the view of gender as a spectrum. Without even closely approaching the group
gathered on the steps of the main plaza, the colors of the signs made it clear that
this protest concerned gender. Upon
closer inspection, we discovered that this group opposed the country’s decision
to include education about the gender spectrum in schools. Although I disagreed with the opinion of
these protesters, I believe their strategy for getting their opinions heard was
quite effective. By choosing the main
square, they were able to get the attention of both the locals and tourists in
the area. This assures that their voices
would be heard by the most people, thus creating the most potential for
change. In this case, not only did
people get attention, but they also clearly conveyed the issue they were concerned
about.
One final march we witnessed
occurred in Lima. In this case, a church
group marched in a much more refined manner than either of the other large
groups we have seen. They were still
holding signs and chanting, yet they presented a much more reserved attitude. Their march ended in a square, where they planned
to conduct mass for the crowd. This type
of activism, recruiting for religion, seems to be present worldwide, with
Peruvians being no exception. In all,
the fact that people in both smaller towns and large tourist cities choose to
protest as a way to make their voice heard shows that across this region of
Peru, people feel empowered enough to stand up for what they believe.
Not Just Salad: A Complete Guide to Being Vegetarian/Vegan in Peru
When I found out that I was going to Peru, I was a bit worried about how my being vegan would pair with Peruvian culture because I know that, much like Russian culture, Latin American culture is generally not very conducive to a vegan diet. However, I have been very pleasantly surprised by the options that I've been able to find in Lima, Cuzco, and everywhere in between and decided to write out a complete guide to my favorite eats here in Peru—both so that I can remember all of the delicious things I've eaten and so that any vegetarians/vegans who take this trip in the future know that they can successfully avoid one of my absolute least favorite things in the world: salads.
Granja Heidi (Cuzco)
This restaurant was by far my favorite in Cuzco. The service is excellent, and the place is owned by a German man who might just be my favorite person ever. They also have an entire vegetarian menu where everything can be customized to be vegan, are very accommodating to dietary restrictions,—I was given a different appetizer than the rest of my group when the appetizer was a bruschetta-like dish with cheese—and it's pretty affordable (I think there's a lunch special where you can get a three-course meal and a drink for only 28 soles).
My personal favorites were the rocoto relleno—Peruvian stuffed peppers—and the "Chinese" stir-fried noodles. Another notable favorite was their crepes, and in my not-so-professional opinion, they have one of the best and most affordable Pisco Sours in the Cuzco-area. One thing to note: the owner doesn't like when too many people from our group take over his restaurant, so it's best to come in groups, but overall, this was both a lunch and dinner favorite that was great for vegans/vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.
Chakruna Native Burgers (Cuzco)
This place is amazing for lunchtime and might just be one of the best deals on this list. For as little as 12 soles you can get a burger, fries with five dipping sauces, and a drink (usually passionfruit juice, which is out of this world.) We went to this place two times over the course of the trip, and everybody loved their burgers both times. The first time I visited I tried the quinoa burger, which I really enjoyed, but the star for me was the chickpea burger that I got the second time. It reminded me a lot of the falafel burger that I get at The Pharmacy in Nashville and was really a 20/10.
Monkey Coffee (Cuzco)
Despite its small size, I was so pleasantly surprised by the food at Monkey Coffee. I ordered a falafel wrap without the yogurt sauce and an Americano. I like to think that I have high standards for falafel because I'm from Chicago, but this falafel wrap was amazing. The Americano was a bit too acidic for my liking, but the prices compared with the deliciousness of the falafel wrap and the nice ambiance (I really like cafés that are a bit smaller because they feel cozier) makes this place well worth the visit.
Creperia La Bo'M (Cuzco)
I loved this restaurant so much that I convinced some members of the group to go here three whole times over the course of the trip. First, they offer a special that allows you to get two crepes and a drink for only 25 soles, as well as both vegan and gluten-free batter. They are very accommodating with all dietary restrictions, the service is excellent, and there's outdoor seating that looks over mountains lit up with lights. Sitting outside one night while eating my food and looking out at that view is one of my favorite memories from Cuzco, so even on a chillier night, I'd say that sitting outside is most definitely worth the experience.
As for the food, they actually have a crepe called "the Vegan," which I ordered two times and loved both times—I wasn't a fan of the asparagus inside so I would recommend getting it without, but that's up to personal preference. On another occasion, I tried the chocolate and fruit crepe with dark chocolate, mango, and vegan batter. This is a great sweet treat if you're in the mood for it, or a potential contender for being one of the crepes in the two for 25 soles deal. Also, the sweet cider here is great and affordable, and I roped some people in our group into trying it and they all enjoyed it as well. If you're looking for a quick, affordable meal, La Bo'M is definitely the place to go.
Pankracio (Cuzco)
We grabbed lunch here on our last day in Cuzco, and I was pretty upset that I hadn't gone here earlier. This place is pretty small and free from most tourists, which I always love to see, and they have a sandwich that's already completely vegan without any customizations. It's called the Peruvian Vegetarian sandwich, and it's one of the best sandwiches I've eaten, maybe ever. It also essentially comes with an entire avocado on it, which is worth it once you realize how delicious avocados are here in Peru. The fries and juice here are also great, and I got an entire meal with a sandwich, fries, and a passionfruit juice for right around 20 soles, if not less.
Supayshi Sushi Bar (Cuzco)
I tried to stay away from foods that I typically eat in the United States while in Peru, but one night I was really craving sushi, and this place delivered. It's affordable, customizable, and has two vegetarian options, which is pretty good for a sushi place in Cuzco. Both come with cream cheese, but they were very accommodating and made the roll for me with avocado instead. Overall, this was a great, quick, cheap eat and really does the trick if you're in the mood for sushi like I was that night.
Tacomania (Cuzco)
Again, coming from the Chicagoland area I've had some great, authentic tacos for only a dollar, so it's hard for other tacos to compare to that sometimes. These definitely weren't on that level, but they still tasted great. I've found that some places skimp on the seasoning for tourists, but I requested a spice level of a 2/3 here, and I got it, which I really appreciated. They were also accommodating about making my tacos without cheese, and they had several options for vegetarian tacos, fajitas, burritos, etc. This one is a little bit farther away than some of the other places mentioned above, but it's worth the trek if you're craving some good tacos in a restaurant with a nice ambiance and great options.
Ulrike's (Pisac)
One of our side trips was to Pisac, and again, I was pretty surprised by the abundance of vegetarian/vegan options here. Besides Blue Llama where everyone will likely be heading together (they have some great vegan options!), I also really enjoyed Ulrike's. I ordered the veggie burger, and it was some much-needed fiber after a few days of sandwiches and rice. We also ordered the guacamole, which was great, and they even had vegan cookies in their bakery! I didn't try those, but if they're anything like some of the other desserts the group ordered, they'll be good.
Blue Magic (Ollantaytambo)
There aren't many options for food in Ollantaytambo, but this place was highly rated on TripAdvisor, as well as affordable. I wouldn't recommend getting the drinks here, but the food was very good. I ended up ordering sauteed vegetables, which was also served with rice and potatoes. It was a bit of a play on lomo saltado but with vegetables instead of beef, and I was glad I got a little bit of that cultural experience in a vegan-friendly package. The service was also pretty quick, and it wasn't super busy when we went there, which is always nice to see because it shortens the wait times—especially if (read: when) you're hungry.
La Chuta (Aguas Calientes)
In case you haven't seen the roast of Aguas Calientes yet on this blog, this town is a bit of a tourist trap which means some of the restaurants have meals that can get up to 70 soles. Luckily, after searching for a little while, we stumbled upon La Chuta—an affordable café that offered baked goods, as well as toasts and sandwiches. Again, this place had a sandwich that was vegan without any modifications and was delicious. Plus, it was served on some of the best bread that I've had in a while. I'd recommend La Chuta if you're looking for a cheap, satisfying meal in Aguas Calientes.
Café San Antonio (Lima)
Though we haven't been in Lima for long, we've already visited Café San Antonio twice because I think it really has something for everyone, no matter how hungry or full you are. The first time we went, everybody was pretty hungry, so I ordered the Verdi wrap, a passionfruit juice, and an alfajor (vegan cheat, whoops). The wrap has avocado, greens, a quinoa blend, pecans, and a variety of other vegetables. The second time we went I got the same wrap with a lemonade, and I enjoyed my meal just as much as the first time. These particular options are a little bit more pricey than some of the vegetarian but not vegan options on the menu, but it's definitely worth it for the taste, quality of service, and overall vibe of the place.
I could go on for days about some of the great vegan options that I've been able to try in Peru, but these were the first ones that came to mind, which makes me think that they were the best. Remember: nobody else in the group is vegan, so all of these places are also great if you're just looking for a delicious and affordable place to eat, no matter where in Peru you may be.
Granja Heidi (Cuzco)
This restaurant was by far my favorite in Cuzco. The service is excellent, and the place is owned by a German man who might just be my favorite person ever. They also have an entire vegetarian menu where everything can be customized to be vegan, are very accommodating to dietary restrictions,—I was given a different appetizer than the rest of my group when the appetizer was a bruschetta-like dish with cheese—and it's pretty affordable (I think there's a lunch special where you can get a three-course meal and a drink for only 28 soles).
My personal favorites were the rocoto relleno—Peruvian stuffed peppers—and the "Chinese" stir-fried noodles. Another notable favorite was their crepes, and in my not-so-professional opinion, they have one of the best and most affordable Pisco Sours in the Cuzco-area. One thing to note: the owner doesn't like when too many people from our group take over his restaurant, so it's best to come in groups, but overall, this was both a lunch and dinner favorite that was great for vegans/vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.
Chakruna Native Burgers (Cuzco)
This place is amazing for lunchtime and might just be one of the best deals on this list. For as little as 12 soles you can get a burger, fries with five dipping sauces, and a drink (usually passionfruit juice, which is out of this world.) We went to this place two times over the course of the trip, and everybody loved their burgers both times. The first time I visited I tried the quinoa burger, which I really enjoyed, but the star for me was the chickpea burger that I got the second time. It reminded me a lot of the falafel burger that I get at The Pharmacy in Nashville and was really a 20/10.
Monkey Coffee (Cuzco)
Despite its small size, I was so pleasantly surprised by the food at Monkey Coffee. I ordered a falafel wrap without the yogurt sauce and an Americano. I like to think that I have high standards for falafel because I'm from Chicago, but this falafel wrap was amazing. The Americano was a bit too acidic for my liking, but the prices compared with the deliciousness of the falafel wrap and the nice ambiance (I really like cafés that are a bit smaller because they feel cozier) makes this place well worth the visit.
Creperia La Bo'M (Cuzco)
I loved this restaurant so much that I convinced some members of the group to go here three whole times over the course of the trip. First, they offer a special that allows you to get two crepes and a drink for only 25 soles, as well as both vegan and gluten-free batter. They are very accommodating with all dietary restrictions, the service is excellent, and there's outdoor seating that looks over mountains lit up with lights. Sitting outside one night while eating my food and looking out at that view is one of my favorite memories from Cuzco, so even on a chillier night, I'd say that sitting outside is most definitely worth the experience.
As for the food, they actually have a crepe called "the Vegan," which I ordered two times and loved both times—I wasn't a fan of the asparagus inside so I would recommend getting it without, but that's up to personal preference. On another occasion, I tried the chocolate and fruit crepe with dark chocolate, mango, and vegan batter. This is a great sweet treat if you're in the mood for it, or a potential contender for being one of the crepes in the two for 25 soles deal. Also, the sweet cider here is great and affordable, and I roped some people in our group into trying it and they all enjoyed it as well. If you're looking for a quick, affordable meal, La Bo'M is definitely the place to go.
Pankracio (Cuzco)
We grabbed lunch here on our last day in Cuzco, and I was pretty upset that I hadn't gone here earlier. This place is pretty small and free from most tourists, which I always love to see, and they have a sandwich that's already completely vegan without any customizations. It's called the Peruvian Vegetarian sandwich, and it's one of the best sandwiches I've eaten, maybe ever. It also essentially comes with an entire avocado on it, which is worth it once you realize how delicious avocados are here in Peru. The fries and juice here are also great, and I got an entire meal with a sandwich, fries, and a passionfruit juice for right around 20 soles, if not less.
Supayshi Sushi Bar (Cuzco)
I tried to stay away from foods that I typically eat in the United States while in Peru, but one night I was really craving sushi, and this place delivered. It's affordable, customizable, and has two vegetarian options, which is pretty good for a sushi place in Cuzco. Both come with cream cheese, but they were very accommodating and made the roll for me with avocado instead. Overall, this was a great, quick, cheap eat and really does the trick if you're in the mood for sushi like I was that night.
Tacomania (Cuzco)
Again, coming from the Chicagoland area I've had some great, authentic tacos for only a dollar, so it's hard for other tacos to compare to that sometimes. These definitely weren't on that level, but they still tasted great. I've found that some places skimp on the seasoning for tourists, but I requested a spice level of a 2/3 here, and I got it, which I really appreciated. They were also accommodating about making my tacos without cheese, and they had several options for vegetarian tacos, fajitas, burritos, etc. This one is a little bit farther away than some of the other places mentioned above, but it's worth the trek if you're craving some good tacos in a restaurant with a nice ambiance and great options.
Ulrike's (Pisac)
One of our side trips was to Pisac, and again, I was pretty surprised by the abundance of vegetarian/vegan options here. Besides Blue Llama where everyone will likely be heading together (they have some great vegan options!), I also really enjoyed Ulrike's. I ordered the veggie burger, and it was some much-needed fiber after a few days of sandwiches and rice. We also ordered the guacamole, which was great, and they even had vegan cookies in their bakery! I didn't try those, but if they're anything like some of the other desserts the group ordered, they'll be good.
Blue Magic (Ollantaytambo)
There aren't many options for food in Ollantaytambo, but this place was highly rated on TripAdvisor, as well as affordable. I wouldn't recommend getting the drinks here, but the food was very good. I ended up ordering sauteed vegetables, which was also served with rice and potatoes. It was a bit of a play on lomo saltado but with vegetables instead of beef, and I was glad I got a little bit of that cultural experience in a vegan-friendly package. The service was also pretty quick, and it wasn't super busy when we went there, which is always nice to see because it shortens the wait times—especially if (read: when) you're hungry.
La Chuta (Aguas Calientes)
In case you haven't seen the roast of Aguas Calientes yet on this blog, this town is a bit of a tourist trap which means some of the restaurants have meals that can get up to 70 soles. Luckily, after searching for a little while, we stumbled upon La Chuta—an affordable café that offered baked goods, as well as toasts and sandwiches. Again, this place had a sandwich that was vegan without any modifications and was delicious. Plus, it was served on some of the best bread that I've had in a while. I'd recommend La Chuta if you're looking for a cheap, satisfying meal in Aguas Calientes.
Café San Antonio (Lima)
Though we haven't been in Lima for long, we've already visited Café San Antonio twice because I think it really has something for everyone, no matter how hungry or full you are. The first time we went, everybody was pretty hungry, so I ordered the Verdi wrap, a passionfruit juice, and an alfajor (vegan cheat, whoops). The wrap has avocado, greens, a quinoa blend, pecans, and a variety of other vegetables. The second time we went I got the same wrap with a lemonade, and I enjoyed my meal just as much as the first time. These particular options are a little bit more pricey than some of the vegetarian but not vegan options on the menu, but it's definitely worth it for the taste, quality of service, and overall vibe of the place.
I could go on for days about some of the great vegan options that I've been able to try in Peru, but these were the first ones that came to mind, which makes me think that they were the best. Remember: nobody else in the group is vegan, so all of these places are also great if you're just looking for a delicious and affordable place to eat, no matter where in Peru you may be.
Saturday, May 25, 2019
Parallels Between Nigerian and Peruvian Culture
On the surface, Nigeria and Peru seem like countries that are worlds apart, but I have noticed some parallels between the two that have made me feel more comfortable in a country that is completely unknown to me and outside of my comfort zone.
Early on in the Maymester, we discussed that mothers sometimes keep their babies on their back by wrapping them in cloth so that they are able to go about their day while keeping their child in close proximity. I found it fascinating to be able to make a connection between the culture here and what makes up a part of my own cultural identity. Although I don’t think that my mom ever did this with me and my brothers, I’ve seen it as a common occurrence among my aunts to the point where I have associated this behavior with Nigerians.
Something interesting that particularly stood out to me in Cuzco was how often I have seen a type of bag that is consistently found in Nigerian households. “Ghana Must Go” bags, as Africans like to call them, aren’t used to carry anything that has any particular cultural significance, but I have never seen anyone else but Africans owning one of these. I first noticed it while at Hotel Archangel, and after that I noticed other people carrying them around when out and about. It is likely that this type of bag is produced worldwide, but I have apparently not seen enough of the world to know about its prevalence outside of my own culture.
The flexibility of time here versus in America is a cultural aspect that I have had to deal with ever since I was little. A prime example of this growing up was the set-up of parties that were thrown by my relatives. Even if the flyer said to promptly be there by 7:00 PM, there is a very strong guarantee that most attendees will not show up until 9:00 PM or 10:00 PM, only for the party to last until 3:00 in the morning at the earliest. Because there is that expectation already set in place that time is seen as more of a suggestion, that attitude leaks into other aspects of life, much like what I’ve seen in Cuzco so far. Every restaurant that we have visited does not pressure you to finish your food and leave and encourages you to enjoy the company of those you’re eating with instead.
I did not realize that drawing connections between cultures was going to be as easy as it has been since arriving in Cuzco. Initially, I assumed that I was going to get a strong sense of culture shock when in reality, I felt more at ease here than I feel like I would have had I not made the effort to learn more about the nuances of Peruvian culture.
Early on in the Maymester, we discussed that mothers sometimes keep their babies on their back by wrapping them in cloth so that they are able to go about their day while keeping their child in close proximity. I found it fascinating to be able to make a connection between the culture here and what makes up a part of my own cultural identity. Although I don’t think that my mom ever did this with me and my brothers, I’ve seen it as a common occurrence among my aunts to the point where I have associated this behavior with Nigerians.
Something interesting that particularly stood out to me in Cuzco was how often I have seen a type of bag that is consistently found in Nigerian households. “Ghana Must Go” bags, as Africans like to call them, aren’t used to carry anything that has any particular cultural significance, but I have never seen anyone else but Africans owning one of these. I first noticed it while at Hotel Archangel, and after that I noticed other people carrying them around when out and about. It is likely that this type of bag is produced worldwide, but I have apparently not seen enough of the world to know about its prevalence outside of my own culture.
The flexibility of time here versus in America is a cultural aspect that I have had to deal with ever since I was little. A prime example of this growing up was the set-up of parties that were thrown by my relatives. Even if the flyer said to promptly be there by 7:00 PM, there is a very strong guarantee that most attendees will not show up until 9:00 PM or 10:00 PM, only for the party to last until 3:00 in the morning at the earliest. Because there is that expectation already set in place that time is seen as more of a suggestion, that attitude leaks into other aspects of life, much like what I’ve seen in Cuzco so far. Every restaurant that we have visited does not pressure you to finish your food and leave and encourages you to enjoy the company of those you’re eating with instead.
I did not realize that drawing connections between cultures was going to be as easy as it has been since arriving in Cuzco. Initially, I assumed that I was going to get a strong sense of culture shock when in reality, I felt more at ease here than I feel like I would have had I not made the effort to learn more about the nuances of Peruvian culture.
Thursday, May 23, 2019
Personal Space in Cusco
One difference that I have noticed between Cusco and the United States is that there seems to be different societal norms involving personal space in public. This is something that I actually began to notice on the flight from New York to Lima, when the man sitting in the seat next to me had no problem placing his arm next to mine on the armrest, something that I had never experienced on other domestic flights in the US. While this may seem like a small thing, it is just one instance that shows how personal space is something that differs in each country.
Walking through the streets of Cusco it becomes obvious that people aren't very concerned about respecting people's personal space, especially vendors. Throughout my time here I have had women grab my arm exclaiming "amiga!" trying to get me to enter their shop, men rub sweaters on my arm to display how soft they are, and children all but shove a baby alpaca into my arms to take a picture with. This was very surprising to me, as in the US there are certain societal rules that prevent vendors from doing things like this. Even in the most touristy places such as Times Square, vendors stay at least 3 feet away from tourists, and attempt to sell their goods from afar.
While this difference in respect for personal space is something that originally surprised me, I don't necessarily see it as a bad thing or disrespectful as I first felt it was when I arrived in Peru. Instead, I see it as more of a cultural difference, as the US places more of an emphasis on the meaning of physical touch, while here in Peru it is seen as more of a friendly thing. While this is not something that I ever think I will fully be used to, it has definitely caused me to realize the difference between the ways Americans and Peruvians express affection. I am interested to see of the same thing occurs in a more modern city such as Lima.
Walking through the streets of Cusco it becomes obvious that people aren't very concerned about respecting people's personal space, especially vendors. Throughout my time here I have had women grab my arm exclaiming "amiga!" trying to get me to enter their shop, men rub sweaters on my arm to display how soft they are, and children all but shove a baby alpaca into my arms to take a picture with. This was very surprising to me, as in the US there are certain societal rules that prevent vendors from doing things like this. Even in the most touristy places such as Times Square, vendors stay at least 3 feet away from tourists, and attempt to sell their goods from afar.
While this difference in respect for personal space is something that originally surprised me, I don't necessarily see it as a bad thing or disrespectful as I first felt it was when I arrived in Peru. Instead, I see it as more of a cultural difference, as the US places more of an emphasis on the meaning of physical touch, while here in Peru it is seen as more of a friendly thing. While this is not something that I ever think I will fully be used to, it has definitely caused me to realize the difference between the ways Americans and Peruvians express affection. I am interested to see of the same thing occurs in a more modern city such as Lima.
The Power of Language
Language has always been fascinating to me, but I've never noticed it more than while in Peru. When I made plans to travel to Cusco, I expected that I would have to rely on my Spanish skills to get around the city. While I have used my Spanish while in Cusco, I was very wrong about the extent that I would need to rely on it. Cusco is much more touristy than I would have imagined. Much to my surprise, almost everyone that I have had to interact with has a basic understanding of the English language. 8/10 times, even when I order a meal in Spanish, my waiter responds with English at least once. I'm glad that I can speak Spanish, but I think I'd be able to survive in Cusco even if I couldn't.
I had another realization about language while I was hiking in Machu Picchu. As one of the most famous tourist destinations in the world, Machu Picchu attracts a very diverse audience with travelers coming from all over the world. At Machu Picchu, not only did I hear Spanish and English, but I heard a variety of languages that I couldn't even identify. But that's not what stood out most to me– what stood out most to me was the fact that I could look at any tourist on the mountain and be unsure of their native tongue. I'd never really been in an environment where I couldn't guess the language someone spoke based on their phenotype with high accuracy. This was nearly impossible in Machu Picchu.
As an example, while the group was taking pictures in from of Huayna Picchu, Corrine and I noticed an old couple trying to get a selfie in front of the mountain. She asked me if we should offer to take their picture for them. I said sure– and then I hesitated because I didn't know in which language to offer my services. Color didn't matter and size was inconclusive. The truth was that it was impossible to tell. This observation made me appreciate the power of language more than I already had. It really is the tool that connects us all.
I had another realization about language while I was hiking in Machu Picchu. As one of the most famous tourist destinations in the world, Machu Picchu attracts a very diverse audience with travelers coming from all over the world. At Machu Picchu, not only did I hear Spanish and English, but I heard a variety of languages that I couldn't even identify. But that's not what stood out most to me– what stood out most to me was the fact that I could look at any tourist on the mountain and be unsure of their native tongue. I'd never really been in an environment where I couldn't guess the language someone spoke based on their phenotype with high accuracy. This was nearly impossible in Machu Picchu.
As an example, while the group was taking pictures in from of Huayna Picchu, Corrine and I noticed an old couple trying to get a selfie in front of the mountain. She asked me if we should offer to take their picture for them. I said sure– and then I hesitated because I didn't know in which language to offer my services. Color didn't matter and size was inconclusive. The truth was that it was impossible to tell. This observation made me appreciate the power of language more than I already had. It really is the tool that connects us all.
Imperial Parades on the Plaza
I woke up on Saturday morning, the 18th of June, and figured I would get up, and make my way down to the Plaza for a meal and to spend some time writing blog posts. My walk started out as any other walk to the plaza, passing a few dogs and being offered quite a few “masajes.” As soon as the Plaza came into sight, I was almost taken aback by the sheer amount of color, movement, and noise that filled the Plaza. I had stumbled upon a series of parades, circling the main Plaza de las armas in Cusco. A few main “groups” were segmented and separated in their own lines in the streets, distinguished by their uniforms, dances, and more, all behind a leader, who often carried a banner denoting their group name and location.
As a foreigner, this was yet another custom or tradition that I had not seen before arriving in Cusco. Men of all ages danced and paraded through the streets, wearing knit masks that left only their eyes exposed, which seemed as if they could have been featured in movies. The same men wore costumes with boxes that almost seemed as shrines, some even carrying baby alpaca or llama pelts in abundance on their lower backs. Some carried what seemed to be freshly passed away alpaca youth in their arms with brightly colored decoration fabrics, as they danced through the streets. Others toted whips and staffs, while a loud, booming, and incessant voice rained down upon the plaza from a set of speakers near the church. Whistles and tunes also graced the air, while I stood on the side of the street, silent, hoping to even begin to understand what was going on. Other people who I’d assumed were visiting Cusco stood in lines behind fences, cameras out, recording, hoping to show their friends and family a glimpse of what was going on in Peru. Large feathers atop hats caught my eye, as I watched professional photographers crouch down in between bouncing men waving flags and their swinging, brightly colored costumes.
Children and other onlookers danced and cheered along the sidewalks and inner plaza, while visitors looked down from pub balconies as well. As I stood in awe, I began to process, and realize that the daily world in which I often find myself is one that is quite a bubble, and one that had never exposed me to the true culture of South America. I felt in this accidental parade viewing that I had learned more about the homages paid to Andean and Inca culture than I could have from any book. Seeing such demonstrations of cultural and group identities in person, painted against the background of the Plaza and the Andes mountains left me wishing I could know more, about each group’s geographic origins and their ties to the original Inca empire. Such a parade also taught me about the flags I have seen during my time in Cusco, highlighting that the Inca empire was in itself a melting pot of cultures and groups, and also that the empire’s influence manifests itself in more ways than seen at the surface level.
Size Matters
Cusco is a large city in Peru; however, it is easy to see how disproportionate the landscape of the city is to the narrow side streets and low entryways of restaurants. Most of the cafes tend to have limited seating and the seating that is available is very small. For example, the benches at Monkey Coffee were very narrow in width. As a result, depending on your bodily proportions, you may be forced to hunch over and type or have your bottom hang off the side of the bench for the entirety of your visit.
Another aspect that reflects how tall I feel in a city of relatively short citizens, is the clothing available. At nearly every tienda the sweaters run small and appear to only go up to a M or L size. When I asked if any stores sold XXL shirts, I was greeted with a polite "No, not in Cusco".
Overall, I think it has been quite challenging adapting to the natural coziness of restaurants, and always being alert as to whether or not I should duck before entering a doorway.
Combining the Old with the New: Thoughts on Restoration of Ruins
As we've visited ancient ruins over the course of the past few weeks—from Chinchero to Ollantaytambo and even to Machu Picchu—there seems to be a bit of an intrusive presence among the ancient walls: construction workers restoring parts of the ruins. As I was exploring the sites, and even afterward, I grappled with the purpose of restoration and whether it is affecting public and Peruvian perception of these sites and their histories. After thinking about it, I've come up with three main theories that I've thought about to explain these restoration efforts:
Theory 1: Restoration allows Peruvians and tourists to remember the past history of the region and its accomplishments—it allows individuals to continue to visit and learn while maintaining the integrity of the site.
This is the most optimistic of the potential reasons that I've thought of. Of course, restoration has a decent amount of value because it allows individuals to continue visiting important historical sites without worrying that they will be destroyed forever and can therefore no longer serve as very obvious testaments to the level of innovation that existed in ancient civilizations.
So, by this theory, restoration provides a happy medium that maintains the integrity of the ruins and flow of people that can learn about the importance of those ruins—both in the ancient and the modern. One could argue that the idea of combining new and old is still questionable because visitors aren't looking exclusively at the achievements of the Incas, but they are nevertheless for the most part Incan achievements and the level of these achievements is not severely undermined by restoration efforts—especially given that these efforts attempt to emulate the ancient style as much as possible.
Theory 2: Restoration is a ploy to attract more tourism to the region because individuals would prefer to see fuller/more completed ruins—it's a sort of "Disneyfication."
This theory is the polar opposite of the first theory and is, in fact, a very negative explanation for restoration attempts. However, I know that others have thought along similar lines because the term "Disneyfication" actually appeared in an article about restoration attempts at Machu Picchu. Essentially, what this means is that the government does not care very much about the ruins and the past innovations that they represent but rather care more about how much revenue they can bring in from tourism. By this logic, they are only making the ruins look as good as possible in order to achieve this goal of more tourism and therefore more revenue.
The problem with this is that increased traffic will result in increased degradation of the ruins and that visiting an ancient site just for the photo opportunity is kind of missing the importance of learning from history—especially from an ancient culture that contributes so strongly to many modern aspects of Peruvian culture, especially here in Cuzco. Why do I think that there may be increased degradation with this motivation for restoration but not the previous one? (After all, both have the same end goal of restoring elements of the ruins) I think it's a matter of quantity—for instance, I know that restoration plans at Machu Picchu are intended to open up at least five new areas of Machu Picchu to the public when a great deal of it is already available, and I don't think anybody suffers from not being able to see more. This seems more like a way to bring in more tourists in a Disney World fashion than actual care about the preservation of the ruins and display of the culture. Plus, my opinion of Aguas Calientes didn't help. If the stop right before Machu Picchu is a tourist trap that gave me strong Animal World or overpriced waterpark vibes, who's to say that something similar won't happen to the perception of one of the New Seven Wonders of the World?
(As a side note, there's also talk about building an entire airport near Machu Picchu to make it easier for tourists to get there, so how much does the government care, really, if they're willing to build a whole international airport near the ruins to increase tourism?)
Theory 3: Restoration is intended to allow Peruvians and tourists to remember the past history of the region but by attracting more tourism with the aesthetically prettier site, it ends up acting as a sort of "Disneyfication" if we're not careful.
This last option fuses the first two theories into a bit of a cautious compromise. As I've mentioned, I think there's a lot of value in restoration because it allows individuals to continue to come and experience a culture that simply cannot be conveyed through photos or videos alone. At the same time, too much of it or restoration with the wrong intentions can prove damaging. I think it's already having some of these effects—for instance, I really did feel like I was at Disney World as I waited 30 minutes to get out of Machu Picchu among a crowd of tourists who weren't even really looking around anymore. Unfortunately, I don't have an answer as to how we can bring back the sentiment that Machu Picchu is an amazing, sacred wonder that demonstrates the peak of a civilization whose culture continues to permeate modern Peru to hundreds upon hundreds of individuals who make the journey for the photo-op and not for the story and mystery behind it all.
Whichever theory is correct, and whatever the solution to all of this may be, I hope that there is, in fact, a solution. After experiencing the awe-inspiring beauty of all of these sites in person, I would hate for something like Machu Picchu to turn into nothing more than a theme-park-like attraction rather than the representation of history, culture, and innovation that it is. The same goes for places like Chinchero and Ollantaytambo.
Theory 1: Restoration allows Peruvians and tourists to remember the past history of the region and its accomplishments—it allows individuals to continue to visit and learn while maintaining the integrity of the site.
This is the most optimistic of the potential reasons that I've thought of. Of course, restoration has a decent amount of value because it allows individuals to continue visiting important historical sites without worrying that they will be destroyed forever and can therefore no longer serve as very obvious testaments to the level of innovation that existed in ancient civilizations.
So, by this theory, restoration provides a happy medium that maintains the integrity of the ruins and flow of people that can learn about the importance of those ruins—both in the ancient and the modern. One could argue that the idea of combining new and old is still questionable because visitors aren't looking exclusively at the achievements of the Incas, but they are nevertheless for the most part Incan achievements and the level of these achievements is not severely undermined by restoration efforts—especially given that these efforts attempt to emulate the ancient style as much as possible.
Theory 2: Restoration is a ploy to attract more tourism to the region because individuals would prefer to see fuller/more completed ruins—it's a sort of "Disneyfication."
This theory is the polar opposite of the first theory and is, in fact, a very negative explanation for restoration attempts. However, I know that others have thought along similar lines because the term "Disneyfication" actually appeared in an article about restoration attempts at Machu Picchu. Essentially, what this means is that the government does not care very much about the ruins and the past innovations that they represent but rather care more about how much revenue they can bring in from tourism. By this logic, they are only making the ruins look as good as possible in order to achieve this goal of more tourism and therefore more revenue.
The problem with this is that increased traffic will result in increased degradation of the ruins and that visiting an ancient site just for the photo opportunity is kind of missing the importance of learning from history—especially from an ancient culture that contributes so strongly to many modern aspects of Peruvian culture, especially here in Cuzco. Why do I think that there may be increased degradation with this motivation for restoration but not the previous one? (After all, both have the same end goal of restoring elements of the ruins) I think it's a matter of quantity—for instance, I know that restoration plans at Machu Picchu are intended to open up at least five new areas of Machu Picchu to the public when a great deal of it is already available, and I don't think anybody suffers from not being able to see more. This seems more like a way to bring in more tourists in a Disney World fashion than actual care about the preservation of the ruins and display of the culture. Plus, my opinion of Aguas Calientes didn't help. If the stop right before Machu Picchu is a tourist trap that gave me strong Animal World or overpriced waterpark vibes, who's to say that something similar won't happen to the perception of one of the New Seven Wonders of the World?
(As a side note, there's also talk about building an entire airport near Machu Picchu to make it easier for tourists to get there, so how much does the government care, really, if they're willing to build a whole international airport near the ruins to increase tourism?)
Theory 3: Restoration is intended to allow Peruvians and tourists to remember the past history of the region but by attracting more tourism with the aesthetically prettier site, it ends up acting as a sort of "Disneyfication" if we're not careful.
This last option fuses the first two theories into a bit of a cautious compromise. As I've mentioned, I think there's a lot of value in restoration because it allows individuals to continue to come and experience a culture that simply cannot be conveyed through photos or videos alone. At the same time, too much of it or restoration with the wrong intentions can prove damaging. I think it's already having some of these effects—for instance, I really did feel like I was at Disney World as I waited 30 minutes to get out of Machu Picchu among a crowd of tourists who weren't even really looking around anymore. Unfortunately, I don't have an answer as to how we can bring back the sentiment that Machu Picchu is an amazing, sacred wonder that demonstrates the peak of a civilization whose culture continues to permeate modern Peru to hundreds upon hundreds of individuals who make the journey for the photo-op and not for the story and mystery behind it all.
Whichever theory is correct, and whatever the solution to all of this may be, I hope that there is, in fact, a solution. After experiencing the awe-inspiring beauty of all of these sites in person, I would hate for something like Machu Picchu to turn into nothing more than a theme-park-like attraction rather than the representation of history, culture, and innovation that it is. The same goes for places like Chinchero and Ollantaytambo.
Things We Take for Granted
Throughout my time in
Cusco, I have learned to appreciate certain things that I had usually taken for
granted in the states.
#1. Air: I really cannot emphasize this one enough. In the
US, I usually run or box at least 4 times a week. Here in Cusco, I will be
winded from walking up a single flight of stairs. I can’t walk uphill and talk
at the same time, and I certainly cannot go on a run. I live by the beach in
the United States, at an altitude of 20 feet above sea level and with
Nashville’s altitude being only 600 feet above sea level, it is fair to say
that I was not accounted to such a lack of oxygen in the air. However, I simply
cannot get over how hard it simply breath at this altitude (11,150 feet).
#2. Toilet Paper: This one took me by surprise. I mean
crappy bathrooms certainly exist in the states and for sure there are times when
bathrooms run out of toilet paper, but here there are places that simply do not
have toilet paper. There have been two hotels we’ve stayed at so far with no
toilet paper and with no toilet paper holders built into the wall. I’m assuming
it has to do with the fact that a lot of places discourage flushing toilet
paper- they’d rather you throw it away. But if the toilets can’t handle toilet
paper, how the heck are they going to handle strong bowel movements?
#3. Thick walls: Once again, I’m positive there are many
places in the states with thin walls, but they have been especially noticeable
here in Peru. Sound travels straight through the walls and I have come to
expect not to expect nice and quiet rooms. Since being here, I have awoken in
the middle of the night to the sound of children playing the street, car horns
(they really like to use their horns here), alarms from different rooms, and
music from other houses.
#4. Water: A considerable portion of my budget has gone
towards bottled water. I was rather skeptical of what I had heard about the
poor quality of water and was planning on just refilling my water bottle from
the sink. However, I soon found out that even salads which were washed with the
tap water would upset my stomach. Water fountains are not a thing here and
while the expenses of paying for bottles of water is a little aggravating, the
inconvenience of water accessibility has been more frustrating.
Chocolate Gift Shop for Visitors
When signing up for my next cultural class, I decided to stray away from yoga, and look towards chocolate making at the Cusco ChocoMuseo. I jumped at the opportunity to take this class at the first given date, and was particularly excited about going to a class that was something I viewed as “uniquely Cusco” or “uniquely Peruvian,” especially due to the fact that it involved the creation of food. However, as all good businesses do, they know how to bring in the tourist, which is exactly what they did. I left the Hotel Arcangel expecting to walk into a full museum, detailing the history of chocolate making in South America, with the end being slightly interactive. However, it was more of a chocolate themed gift shop than a museum. The theme of chocolate and its creation in South America seemed to overwhelm, to a point that I would almost compare the gift shop to a LEGO store at LEGOLAND. One could buy chocolate products for all members of the family, ranging from clothing to health products to food and beverage, among other trinket items.
Moving on to the actual class, this small cooking style table was crowded by tourists, many being students, with a few other visitors sprinkled in. From the Chocolate making process painting that was listed in three languages, to the history boards in English, to the class being largely taught in English, it was very clear right off the bat that the class is something that a true Peruvian would likely not attend. The teacher/chef made for a very entertaining and engaging class, and I was very glad I went to the class and made my own chocolate creations, despite it lasting two full hours. The chef spoke a mix of English and Spanish, catering to the room of English speaking tourists, while donning a Peru logo on his chef’s jacket and a chef's hat. Every other person in the room wore a ChocoMuseo apron, some brave enough to wear chef’s hats as well, in an attempt to assimilate into the “uniquely Peruvian” activity. Such involvement in the class appeared ironic, as one could not appear as more of a foreigner than through attending that class. While I learned the process of making chocolate and learned of its origins in South America, I also left the class feeling as if I contributed to a booming tourism industry, and not with a better cultural understanding of the history of the Andean diet.
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