Monday, May 27, 2019

Not Just Salad: A Complete Guide to Being Vegetarian/Vegan in Peru

When I found out that I was going to Peru, I was a bit worried about how my being vegan would pair with Peruvian culture because I know that, much like Russian culture, Latin American culture is generally not very conducive to a vegan diet. However, I have been very pleasantly surprised by the options that I've been able to find in Lima, Cuzco, and everywhere in between and decided to write out a complete guide to my favorite eats here in Peru—both so that I can remember all of the delicious things I've eaten and so that any vegetarians/vegans who take this trip in the future know that they can successfully avoid one of my absolute least favorite things in the world: salads.

Granja Heidi (Cuzco)
This restaurant was by far my favorite in Cuzco. The service is excellent, and the place is owned by a German man who might just be my favorite person ever. They also have an entire vegetarian menu where everything can be customized to be vegan, are very accommodating to dietary restrictions,—I was given a different appetizer than the rest of my group when the appetizer was a bruschetta-like dish with cheese—and it's pretty affordable (I think there's a lunch special where you can get a three-course meal and a drink for only 28 soles).

My personal favorites were the rocoto relleno—Peruvian stuffed peppers—and the "Chinese" stir-fried noodles. Another notable favorite was their crepes, and in my not-so-professional opinion, they have one of the best and most affordable Pisco Sours in the Cuzco-area. One thing to note: the owner doesn't like when too many people from our group take over his restaurant, so it's best to come in groups, but overall, this was both a lunch and dinner favorite that was great for vegans/vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

Chakruna Native Burgers (Cuzco)
This place is amazing for lunchtime and might just be one of the best deals on this list. For as little as 12 soles you can get a burger, fries with five dipping sauces, and a drink (usually passionfruit juice, which is out of this world.) We went to this place two times over the course of the trip, and everybody loved their burgers both times. The first time I visited I tried the quinoa burger, which I really enjoyed, but the star for me was the chickpea burger that I got the second time. It reminded me a lot of the falafel burger that I get at The Pharmacy in Nashville and was really a 20/10.

Monkey Coffee (Cuzco)
Despite its small size, I was so pleasantly surprised by the food at Monkey Coffee. I ordered a falafel wrap without the yogurt sauce and an Americano. I like to think that I have high standards for falafel because I'm from Chicago, but this falafel wrap was amazing. The Americano was a bit too acidic for my liking, but the prices compared with the deliciousness of the falafel wrap and the nice ambiance (I really like cafés that are a bit smaller because they feel cozier) makes this place well worth the visit.

Creperia La Bo'M (Cuzco)
I loved this restaurant so much that I convinced some members of the group to go here three whole times over the course of the trip. First, they offer a special that allows you to get two crepes and a drink for only 25 soles, as well as both vegan and gluten-free batter. They are very accommodating with all dietary restrictions, the service is excellent, and there's outdoor seating that looks over mountains lit up with lights. Sitting outside one night while eating my food and looking out at that view is one of my favorite memories from Cuzco, so even on a chillier night, I'd say that sitting outside is most definitely worth the experience.

As for the food, they actually have a crepe called "the Vegan," which I ordered two times and loved both times—I wasn't a fan of the asparagus inside so I would recommend getting it without, but that's up to personal preference. On another occasion, I tried the chocolate and fruit crepe with dark chocolate, mango, and vegan batter. This is a great sweet treat if you're in the mood for it, or a potential contender for being one of the crepes in the two for 25 soles deal. Also, the sweet cider here is great and affordable, and I roped some people in our group into trying it and they all enjoyed it as well. If you're looking for a quick, affordable meal, La Bo'M is definitely the place to go.

Pankracio (Cuzco)
We grabbed lunch here on our last day in Cuzco, and I was pretty upset that I hadn't gone here earlier. This place is pretty small and free from most tourists, which I always love to see, and they have a sandwich that's already completely vegan without any customizations. It's called the Peruvian Vegetarian sandwich, and it's one of the best sandwiches I've eaten, maybe ever. It also essentially comes with an entire avocado on it, which is worth it once you realize how delicious avocados are here in Peru. The fries and juice here are also great, and I got an entire meal with a sandwich, fries, and a passionfruit juice for right around 20 soles, if not less.

Supayshi Sushi Bar (Cuzco)
I tried to stay away from foods that I typically eat in the United States while in Peru, but one night I was really craving sushi, and this place delivered. It's affordable, customizable, and has two vegetarian options, which is pretty good for a sushi place in Cuzco. Both come with cream cheese, but they were very accommodating and made the roll for me with avocado instead. Overall, this was a great, quick, cheap eat and really does the trick if you're in the mood for sushi like I was that night.

Tacomania (Cuzco)
Again, coming from the Chicagoland area I've had some great, authentic tacos for only a dollar, so it's hard for other tacos to compare to that sometimes. These definitely weren't on that level, but they still tasted great. I've found that some places skimp on the seasoning for tourists, but I requested a spice level of a 2/3 here, and I got it, which I really appreciated. They were also accommodating about making my tacos without cheese, and they had several options for vegetarian tacos, fajitas, burritos, etc. This one is a little bit farther away than some of the other places mentioned above, but it's worth the trek if you're craving some good tacos in a restaurant with a nice ambiance and great options.

Ulrike's (Pisac)
One of our side trips was to Pisac, and again, I was pretty surprised by the abundance of vegetarian/vegan options here. Besides Blue Llama where everyone will likely be heading together (they have some great vegan options!), I also really enjoyed Ulrike's. I ordered the veggie burger, and it was some much-needed fiber after a few days of sandwiches and rice. We also ordered the guacamole, which was great, and they even had vegan cookies in their bakery! I didn't try those, but if they're anything like some of the other desserts the group ordered, they'll be good.

Blue Magic (Ollantaytambo)
There aren't many options for food in Ollantaytambo, but this place was highly rated on TripAdvisor, as well as affordable. I wouldn't recommend getting the drinks here, but the food was very good. I ended up ordering sauteed vegetables, which was also served with rice and potatoes. It was a bit of a play on lomo saltado but with vegetables instead of beef, and I was glad I got a little bit of that cultural experience in a vegan-friendly package. The service was also pretty quick, and it wasn't super busy when we went there, which is always nice to see because it shortens the wait times—especially if (read: when) you're hungry.

La Chuta (Aguas Calientes)
In case you haven't seen the roast of Aguas Calientes yet on this blog, this town is a bit of a tourist trap which means some of the restaurants have meals that can get up to 70 soles. Luckily, after searching for a little while, we stumbled upon La Chuta—an affordable café that offered baked goods, as well as toasts and sandwiches. Again, this place had a sandwich that was vegan without any modifications and was delicious. Plus, it was served on some of the best bread that I've had in a while. I'd recommend La Chuta if you're looking for a cheap, satisfying meal in Aguas Calientes.

Café San Antonio (Lima)
Though we haven't been in Lima for long, we've already visited Café San Antonio twice because I think it really has something for everyone, no matter how hungry or full you are. The first time we went, everybody was pretty hungry, so I ordered the Verdi wrap, a passionfruit juice, and an alfajor (vegan cheat, whoops). The wrap has avocado, greens, a quinoa blend, pecans, and a variety of other vegetables. The second time we went I got the same wrap with a lemonade, and I enjoyed my meal just as much as the first time. These particular options are a little bit more pricey than some of the vegetarian but not vegan options on the menu, but it's definitely worth it for the taste, quality of service, and overall vibe of the place.

I could go on for days about some of the great vegan options that I've been able to try in Peru, but these were the first ones that came to mind, which makes me think that they were the best. Remember: nobody else in the group is vegan, so all of these places are also great if you're just looking for a delicious and affordable place to eat, no matter where in Peru you may be.

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